You should be able to go to a local auto parts store and find the specs for spark plug and point gapping. While youre there you should pick up a flat feeler gauge to use for your adjustments, they practically give them away for free. Also you could look on Ebay. I have seen spec sheets going for about $7. You could probably get a manual there too. If you decide to replace the points and condensor take them out and take them with you or they'll probably give you the wrong crap. Check out your local library or a used book store. I have found some good books that way cheap.
thanks. what I mean by sounds like a going to break is that when i tried to turn on the engine sometimes there is like some loud crack coming from the engine or something.
Do you have an A/C, if you do, make sure that it is off and start it, if it doesnt make that crack its the clutch on the compressor. mine makes a loud click, that could be mistaken for a broken motor. If you dont, then just ignore this.
I do have a/c, but I know some a/c component around the engine is not working. i doesnt that have the belt around it to make run. (Its the same one that is suppose to go with the engine fan and the alternator) FOr some reason the car only has the belt for the fan and the alternator and somethng else. The a/c thing isnt hooked up, but the fan on the a/c works only on the driver side. I dont think thats it then
Even though there is not a belt to it. If there is electricity getting to it, the clutch will click on.
update: no good hey ! I changed the spark plugs (which was easy fortunately thanks for the help)and still no good. The car starts better though. It actually turns on more often and stuff, and the exhaust sounds louder. I sprayed the choke cleaner into the choke and I dont know if it did any good. Now im really stumped. I dont think its anything electrical. I think its the carb, but then im again im no car expert. It did start many times unlike before but its the same stuff. its idling good and then the idle starts going slower then it just dies The only times it starts is without the air filter.(i didnt try it much with the air filter on) what should I do now? Any idea how much a mechanic would charge to come to my house and take a look at it?(nearest mechanic is like 10 miles away) or is there something I can still do myself? i really need help! can anyone tell me how to check the carb to see if its any good or anything? What else can it be?
yea, I always press the gas and stuff when its on and yeah it accelerates but if I press the gas, it turns off faster than if i just leave the car idling.
duster70 Ok so if you get it to start and let it sit idling, it will stay running longer than if you press the gas. After it stalls do you have to crank it a long time to get it to start? The next time you get it to start let it run till it stops. Then with the air filter and housing removed, look down in to the carb and move the throtle. Tell us if you see gas squirting in to the carb. If not you have a fuel delevery problem. To find the problem start at the carb and remove the filter.( green box in pic) Remove from carb and line. Try to blow through it (from the gas line side) if it is hard to blow through you need to replace it. If you can blow through it easy then re install it. Now folow the line down to the pump mounted to the side of the block. You will see another hose conected to the pump. disconect this line. (it goes to the tank) try to blow in to this line. may be a little hard at first but then you should hear bubbles in the tank. If it continues to be hard to blow into you may have a pluged/restricted filter in the tank. or a kinked line/hose betwen the tank and pump. If you can easly blow bubbles in the tank. Re install the supply line to the pump. The next thing to check is the pump itself. you may need some help with this one. Get a 2 liter pop bottle remove gas line from the filter and place into the pop bottle, have your helper try to start the motor, it should start to fill the bottle bretty quick once it gets gas back to the pump. If not the pump is probly bad.
hey thanks for the info everyone. I havent been able to get on most of the summer so sorry. Anyhow I do have to crank it alot to get it started. Here something new. The car wont start now at all. I finally got a mechanic to look at it. He said that the starter was bad. I already bought the new starter and a new battery, im just waiting for a chance to call him up again to install it and stuff. First I need him to put it and then Ill chaeck all the carb stuff. Oh yeah I remember cheacking the fuel filter and yeah it was really hard to blow through so Ill go get that. Is it just called a fuel filter? thanks alot everyone. Oh yeah I have another problem. In the intructions of the starter, It says that a need a battery that will hold a charge of 12.6 volts or that it is 12.6 volts. Then it say something about buying the most powerful high quality battery if I dont have one or something. Then it says that I have to cheack the solenoid or regulator im not sure and see if it can give that charge to the battery. How am I going to know this stuff? help please what does it all mean??? Thanks alot everyone its nice to be back!
Those are just precautions, or to help you diagnose some other problem. In your case, I would just ignore them and install the starter. Why not install the stuff yourself? These cars are super easy to work on, seems to me you are just wasteing moneny haveing a mechanic install stuff like that.
Starter swap is a simple 10 minute job Disconnect Battery Raise car and support on jack stands. Starter is in the passenger side rear of the engine. Remove nut that attaches the solenoid cable to the starter Remove 2 bolts holding starter to the bellhousing Remove starter (don't drop it on your head it will hurt) Reverse procedure to install new starter.
