Will I be ok with this cam and stock heads/pistons? Valve clearances? I hope so, because I just bought it. Mostly street driving, may take it to the strip once and a while. http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=363942&lvl=2&prt=5
Thanks Don. I got carried away on eBay and jumped on a good deal. Then I got to thinking about the lift. It's a 84 302 from a T bird. I know I'll probably have to replace the valve springs if I start to romp on it.
I have same cam with stock (ported) heads, stock pistons(not stock rings), stock valves, springs are not stock, new lifters and timening chane, air gap intake, hooker headers, holley 650cfm. For now 2000 miles. I'll like it.
I dunno... From what I have heard, over .500 lift requires screw in studs at least. Also have to worry some about the stock rockers binding, but .012" might not be enough to need long slots. I was advised that long slots are a must around .525"-.530". I kept my cam choice under .500" and made sure to put suitable springs in. My uncle ran that cam and said he pulled a couple studs out until he broke down and got screw-ins. My fear with stock springs would be valve float. Lose control of the valvetrain and bad things can happen. Not trying to shoot down your cam, just playing devils advocate... Dave
I agree with this..... The only way to know is check it with clay and to look at the valave train very close in the max lift posistion
Should be OK with stock diameter valves - but I would check piston to valve just to feel safe. Also double check the valve seal to the valve guide on the exhast at full lift. I have ground the tops off with a handgrinder and deburr tool before. Definately new valve springs. If you have the 84 heads then they will use a 5/16 bolt to hold down the rocker - no need for screw in studs. The slot in the rocker may need to be opened a little on the exhaust. Cleaver
Thanks all for your input. Will be a while before I can put it all together, got to save up and sell some more stuff now to get the timing chain, gasket set, and motor mounts. Then find the time to put it all together!
It is a grind that gets its peak hp at 5400 rpm and should not be pushed over 5900 RPM the cam will be fine. It should be matched with a dual plane intake rated at the same RPM range. The OFFY will work but not as well as the dual plane. you are going to lose a lot of bottom end with the dual port 360. You will probably run into spring bind with the high lift unless you get the springs that Crane recommends for it. You should have screw-in studs installed and if you are running stock heads port matching will help. Get the rockers that Crane recommends - they will have slightly longer slots to keep the rockers from binding on the studs. If you are going to install roller rockers (I don't recommend it for this matchup) you will need to install guide plates unless you use the roller tip rockers with rails from Comp cams or similar. Headers are more than big enough and for the street you may want to change that double pumper for a vacuum secondary carb at around 680 to 720 CFM. It will be nicer to drive and with the proper secondary springs it will out perform the 650 DP.
i have heard that a .512 lift cam is fine for stock setups... anyone else want to elaborate? i plan on getting the XE268H cam which is a .512 intake and .512 exhaust.. i have heard it fits with zero problems.. i am curious as well. the cam i have is .477 intake .484 exhaust. it runs good, just needs more power.
You stand a good chance of pulling it off. Piston clearance should probably be ok, check for coil bind and make sure your springs are rated with enough pressure, naturally. I'm guessing you're running singles.
when you have problems with the valves coming out of adjustment you can pull the heads and have screw in studs installed and then you can either grind the slots in your stock rockers or buy some long slot rockers to replace them. Your pushrods probably won't bend with the slight bind that you have when the rockers bind against the studs.
