look at what i found at jegs, i read about them , but didnt see where to buy them valley girdle is supposed to help from a cracked block, just a little added strengh http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_104517_-1_104516 this is prolly old news, but its seams to be a good idea
<--- Mechanical Designer w/20 years experience viewpoint 2cents: ) This is my OWN personal opinion. Until I see Independant lab test results, I doubt its usefulness. As (most) blocks are cast, their tolerance to deflection (strain) is minimal (compared to a forging). If the device were to "pre-load" the casting, I could see where it might help. Without performing an FEA (Finite Element Analysis) on this particular system, I wouldn't be surprised if it was a waste of money. However....if the device were to preload (put in tension) the two opposing anchor points, I would be more apt to believe that it is a worthy product. Years ago, I toyed with the idea of drilling and tapping the bosses horizontally (vs. vertically as show) and pre-load the two anchor points using a Heim Joint type arrangement using a high strength steel (110ksi+ YS). I would still like to pursue the idea, but will probably wait until I have to remove the intake. Having said all that, I don't see where installing one would hurt anything. It's not like they're removing material that is used to strengthen the block. If someone has the extrea money, I wouldn't argue with their decision to buy and install it. Also, and maybe more importantly, one can argue that the block splits from the mains and that the crack propogates upward to the valley - not from the valley downward. <-- ("Know-it-all")
I'm with Rick, seems like it would be better to strengthen the main cap area, much more stress on the bottom end than in the lifter valley.....
if i was doin the top , i would def do the mains im not doing that, its just something i found when i was on the jegs site
It's been shown that these things are about as useful, or should I say useless, as main girdles at strengthening a Ford small block. At least main girdle can help keep the caps from walking at high rpm but it doesn't add any strength to the block. At a certain power level the main webs will begin to crack and then the crack goes up to the lifter valley. This is how SBF blocks almost always crack. The main girdle can help hold things together when the block splits and maybe save the crank and cam. The valley support doesn't keep the crack from coming up from the main webs. For the support to be effective it would have to be placed below the valley. Of course there's no room for it there. Places sell them 'cause there are people willing to buy them.
I saw this item at the PRI trade show in Orlando last year - seemed to be a sound idea and might be worth the cost if you were trying to avoid buying a big dollar block.
And you're going to see more & more people falling for gimmicks like these until the price of a GOOD block comes down from that $2000 price tag. Good God I can build the entire short block and sometimes the heads for $2000 including machining...using a stock block. Sure, they break once in a while. Guess what happens when something breaks in a $2k block & eats up the block? There is a certain feeling...like your heart is in your stomach and it is about 2000 times worse with a GOOD block than it would be if you had a stock block! 'Course now if you can afford to put $10,000 into your engine, what is another $2K for a measly block? Not all of us can afford that kind of investment....
We talked about this product but I didn't know what it was called. It was on HorsePowerTV too. I think I would listen to people on here brfore I listen to what the guy on the show says. Bills have to be paid on the show...lol
Yeah, some of these TV shows are getting like the magazines. Their only function is to sell their sponsor's products. Horsepower TV constantly amazes me. They'll spend $2000 on speed parts and then pat themselves on the back because the engine made 25 more horsepower than before.
I agree also. The installation process leave "slack" where the holes are drilled. IF you could post-tension it afterwards with a turnbuckle type mechanism, then "maybe" it might help. Otherwise its snake oil. JMHO
If you ever want to "stress" your block with heim joints or whatever, better do it before you bore and machine it! You will distort your bock and on the start of sure destruction. This may very well work, not a cure all, but an aide. The "girdle is not stressing, just prevent movement and possible (I think the term is Right) harmonic vibration, shaking, or whatever they or you may want to call it. This girdle does not pull or push on the block, it appears as if it just holds the flexing to a mininium! Not that I remember, but I've heard this, People told some brothers, That thing will never fly! Glad them boys didn't listen! I would not knock this,,,, not sure if I will spend $225-250 on it. But I cant say junk without something to back it with.
The "junk" opinion comes from some very well known engine builders who are familiar with the product.
If the crack starts down low and works it way up, would something that puts tension up top in the lifter valley not make it more prone to cracking down low?
I understand the theory but the tensioning force required up top would have to be tremendous in order to affect the area of the mains (IMHO).
just a side note on the "tv show" guys. i watched a certain couple build an offroad ranger, telling my wife the whole time the weld joints and design were crappy and would fail. when it happened i wasnt at all surprised. also watched similar things on other do it yourself shows that were equally amusing. as stated above, if the crack is starting in the middle and going out, how will reinforcing the valley prevent the cam and crank from coming out at RPM? of course i wish i could afford a racing block and a second mav to put it in
