Has anyone run Kaase heads?

well i got mine at summit, but looks like they raised the price on them now to 469 each assembled

 

they are world series sr. heads, not bad for a budget car, 200 cc runners 2.02/1.6os , 560 lift max. hydraulic design. cast heads. thats iron friend, and iron makes weight, so cry roush all ya want, they blow! but seriously, for a budget minded guy wanting to think hes getting bang for his buck, there ya go.

 

$469 each...that's $940 for the pair. You can get Edelbrocks for just a dollar or two more...and they're about 50 lbs lighter (pair) and the resale value is a LOT better! Again, Edelbrock has the best bang for the buck, IMO.

 

? not sure where this info came from, but i have a set and if your considering them then you need large displacement or high rpms. They bolt up just like any other sbf head no extra bolts?:16suspect you will need their valve covers, and a limited variety of rocker arms will fit due to the canted valve design and you will need to change your push tubes. if you look at the jegs website it will give you part# for jeg's brand rockers and push tubes that will work. If you chose to use something different just test fit it before you assemble the engine because as i said before the canted valve design does not leave much room for all brands of rocker arms. as far as performance we purchased the heads to build a 408 stroker for our bracket car, but temptation set in and we installed them on our 302 motor. Well on the stock 302 block with mild cam (same cam that was in the motor before the heads installed (351 stock)) and we lost on our 60' but picked up on 1/8 et. Seat of the pants dyno felt the car very sluggish at take off but pulled harder than before on the top end as the time ship showed. The 408 is built now, but it still on the stand. We expect alot out of it, but until it is runon the dyno, or we make time to fit it in the car i will not be able to tell you how well they perform on something that will appreciate them. In short, if your not building a screamer or stroker I would recommend something smaller. As far as anything special i only count the valve covers as being the only special thing the heads do require. Hope this helps.

 

If your on a budget... I wouldn't even bother with heads
Buy a good manfold, a good sized cam, rearend gears, headers and new exhaust and you will notice a LOT more performance than just bolting on a set of heads onto any motor.

Just my 2 cents.

If you can find a set of ported iron stock heads, they run well. I have a set on my 302 and in a full interior maverick it was running 10.80s or so in my buddies car.. Same cam and heads and gears.

So if your not going to be buying a lot of other stuff for your motor, save your 1000 bucks, and buy cam, intake and carb, headers, exhaust and some good rear end gears. Id suggest a 3.50 gear or something in that range...

 

Had AFR 185s on my 347 and Eddy RPMs on my 306. The AFRs make a little more power but cost $300 more and come with crappy valve springs. Side by side comparison, the Eddys look like a better built head and have helicoiled bolt holes at the exhaust, intake and rocker studs.

 

Oh yeah, like Shadow said, I've also run GT40Ps. Great flowing iron heads but takes some work to connect headers and change plugs.

 

problem i had with the roush 200 heads i had on the ole mav i had was the damn #5 spark plug wire sat right against the header tube because i guess the moved the spark plug angle, that was with headman longtube headers

 

It's funny ,I know two guys that had the edel RPM heads and both dropped valves. Anybody else have issues with them? I also will disagree a bit here and say Iron does make more power and on a street car that is running lower than 11.0 to 1 comp ratio I just don't see the extra benefit going one way or the other on street cars. A race that sticks out at the 05' round up was My car vs. Dennis Martin's Sweet Sprint.
Even match. I run Roush Heads, He runs AFRs, I run a much smaller cam/Auto, his is a stick but I had the weight advantage.Not sure What gears Dennis runs but I have 3.40s. We both had slicks/drag radials I lost that race(not by much) I always watch it on my comp as a reminder of what I feel was a great race. I will post it later on youtube.

 

well i remember about 11 years ago when we first were debating on the first set of aftermarket heads for mavman's car, the decision came down to either canfield or edelbrock or the world heads, and between him and oldguy they decided to go edelbrock for a couple reasons, they were affordable because we too are on a budget and plus they were aluminum, that got about i dunno 30 lbs off the front of the car, it took that ole hot rod from runnin like 10.40's in the 1000' to 9.60's with no other mods, honest to god, no jetting no cam change no nothin change, that was years aggo with an 8" rear with 4.62 gears and a fairbanks convertor which oldguy still runs in the fairymont, i was convinced with the quality of em enough to where when i was building my mustang that i bought a set used from a guy at teh track, they only have the 1.94 intake valves but they still pull hard all the way to around 7100 shift points with an rpm air gap and a 750 hollep DP, i missed those when i traded mavman for the maverick, had to step back to the ole iron ported jobs, then got a deal on those roush 200s which i wasnt happy with at all, damned things weighed more than the factory heads the spark plug boots sat against the header tubes and they just didnt seem to pull as well across the board

 

I wasn't that impressed with them either over the stock ported and polished heads like we both have ran on identical 302s.
For the price you got them for, it was a good deal, but we cussed those things many times for burning plug wires and smashing electrodes on the pistons

 

I run pop ups and have no issues with smashing electrodes. Are you sure you guys were running the right plugs? I made the mistake of putting long reaches in when I fired it up ran great until it got to operating temp and hit 2 electrodes. I almost had a heart attack..... I did have issues with plu wires but i got around that easy enough. I've had the same set on for 2 years now. I didnlt have to mod the headers at all. elite hedmans Shorty Plugs, Ford 9mm wires, just had to cut the boots down a half inch.I love roush heads so na na boo boo stick your heads in doo doo

 

War Machine vs the Sprint



I break traction at the line or i would have won
Actually as I mentioned it was a very even match up with simliar combos just different brand parts. I also believe Rick Porters Street mav was runnning very similiar times. I lost to him too. It was a Hot day and the cars were slow as a result. My best 1/8 mile was 8.28 that day. My best 1/8 mile otherwise is 7.997 and there was still more in that car. It certainly was not 1/8 mile car with 3.40s gear not to mention my traction issues I never took the time to sort out. Springs were cut to low in the frt so weight transfer sucked. I am using the same Roush 200's that will get a stage 1 port job for my 331 that I am currently building. I fully expect a streetable mid 11 second car and a high 10 with a 125 shot of giggle gas. See you guys at the track 2008

BTW let me clarify I donlt think these heads would support a 9 second car but niether wil AFR165s or 185s(well maybe) or Edelvrocks RPMs. They are street head and one that seems to do just as well as the other choices.

 

Dennis's car has 3.89 gears in it. I personally believe his car would be a lot faster if he got rid of the small base circle roller cam and installed a full size cam w/link lifters. I think he has too many projects going on though to worry about the Sprint anymore. I should have that problem.

 

Yup, the correct plugs. We even called.
We did however run the lil spacer rings you can use and it worked fine.