no i didnt hammer it, i used my air impact wrench like dan was saying i slid the balencer up enough to get the bolt started and tighted it down yeha i know hammering it would mess up the thrust bearing
balancer Thanks guys. The bolt isn't long enough to reach the threads. I tried tapping it on with a rubber hammer but it doesn't slide on far enough. I started to use a block of wood between the balancer and a regular hammer and thought better after thinking about the thrust bearing!! Good call on that one. I stopped right away so I assume no damage done. I'll have to find a longer bolt. This is a newer block with the dowels in the front that the timing cover slides on. Therefore, not much room for adjustment. I just wanted to be sure that it was supposed to slide on with that much difficulty and it sounds as though it should take a good deal of pressure to install it.
I had the same problem with an FRPP balancer. I ended up putting the balancer in a pan of boiling water to heat it up and then I was able to get it on far enough to start the bolt.
crank key?? the thing is locked?? Just kidding DM. It slides on to the key but not far enough to allow the bolt to start. I found a shop that carries larger bolts and they had one that will reach to get it started. I just hope the few times I pounded on it didn't damage the thrust bearing. The seal was a little off center because it wasn't completely seated. I tapped it in and it lines up fine. I'll install it tomorrow starting with the longer bolt. Thanks JMG at least I know someone else had the same problem with the FRPP balancer.
Boil it in water and drive it on with a block of wood infront of it. Here are instructions from FRPP. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/fms-m-6316-c351.pdf
Hint from Heloise: Always apply a liberal coat of Anti-seize to the 'affected area' on the crank. It makes for easier installation and future removal.
I use the impact to draw mine in. This doesn't require blocking the engine from rotating. I really like the idea of leaving the timing cover loose! I will start doing that... I love this site. I tend to lubricate my balancer too, around the outside surface that meets the seal. If the threads aren't reaching, it is usually by a very small amount. I have taken the washer off the bolt and made it a tad longer that way. Then after the balancer goes on just a bit, put the washer back on. Good luck Dave Edit: I was typing during the anti-sieze post... That is a good idea too. You are suggesting putting that on the crank snout, correct? If so, I like it. So... Leave the cover a little loose Anti-sieze the crank snout White grease the seal surface of the balancer Slide on Start bolt without washer Use impact so the engine won't spin Reinstall washer Impact the rest of the way Tighten timing cover
