I have 1973 Maverick and would like to run 13 seconds 1/4 shift around 5800/6000 and keep it a daily driver I'm building a 1986 5.0 ROLLER .030 over Speed Pro pistons CR 9.13: 63cc I have the 5.0 E6SE and C5AE 289 head Power+Plus CROSSWIND intake 1500/6500 600 EDELBROCK need to know which heads to run and a good camshaft
289 heads The later model 5.0 heads are a better choice, performance wise. they flow nicer and have a better chamber design, but because of the spark plug angle on the later model heads, they interfere with any header you can run on that motor. Because the engine bay is so cramped, there isnt really much of a choice for headers anyway. So for clearance purposes id go with the early 289 heads, and i believe the C5AE is the small chambered heads, so that wouls help with compression. And with a good cam and those heads, mabye some work done to them its possible to get into the 13's... But with the cam, im not really sure what would be the best choice.
dont even worry with the gt-40P (late model explorers,thats the spark plug clearnce problem) slap some eldebrock performer heads , not sure on roller cams , you could prolly look into letter cams , like E,F,X what ever , 13s should be pretty easy Myself im a early head guy i have C9 heads on my 351w, but with loads of money in them money that could have gotten me aluminum(or even good iron aftermarket heads ie: Rousch 200) heads but hell live and learn far as shock tower mod that doest make a difference in header clearnece just sparkplug clearence and header bolts 3000 stall converter and some diecent gears and some good tires makes a difference many options and opinons just my eddie
need a tad more info.... What transmission are you gonna use, if auto what stall speed converter are you gonna run? Rear gears and rim/tire size. Gunning for high or low 13s? Personally I would drop the edelbrock carb(then again I only know one person that uses them and his cars are just cruisers and never see the track). if you go auto at least 2500 stall 3.40 to 3.55 gears and 26 to 27 inch tall tires should keep you in or around a power band from just off idle to 5500rpm to possibly 6k rpm depending on valve train components and cam selection. A set of roller rockers would be a good idea along with an adjustable valve train. Good Machine work is great for free horse power. It can make the difference between a motor making an extra 10-25 hp or more in a true race motor. Also proper valve train geometry keeps the valves/valve guides from wearing. It will insure maxium horse power as it promotes proper valve events and less friction. You should be able to reach high 13s or a tad faster. if you want to go faster a better head should be substituted. You will get a million different opinions there. I say pick an expected Powerband(rpm span that produces a broad power range from set point to point such as 2200-6500 and select all parts to match/work in that allowable range) It will help keep things in perspective and help in building a combo that works as expected.
Gotta disagree.The later heads have no spark plug/header problem,unless you're running a GT-40P head.The E6 heads are little more than truck heads,the 289s are a better choice of the two.I don't get why you say theres little choice of headers,several brands fit just fine.I'd personally find a set of E7 heads,port 'em a bit,and you'll want at least a 3.40-3.55 gear.It's not too hard to get these cars into the 13's,about 200-250 hp is all it takes.Remember the 5.0 Mustangs would run easy 13s w/little more than gears/slicks(stick cars)and they were only rated 215-225 hp stock.
1986 5.0 ROLLER block .030 over Speed Pro pistons CR 9.13: rated at 63cc C5AE 289 head 58/54 cc not sure Power+Plus CROSSWIND intake 1500/6500 ISKY CAMS RR-265/275 HYDRAULIC 5.00/5.20 lift 2000-6000 Valve Lift - INT 600 EDELBROCK C4 2500 stall 26X11.50 tire 3.40 gear 8.8 rear is this a 13 second maverick or what do i need to change I would like to get it on the first try
Maybe,but if you just have to get it on the first try,then go with a 3.80 gear,posi/locker unit,3500 stall,slicks and a 750 vs holley.And be sure to port out the exhaust side on those heads,gasket match should be plenty.Have fun.
a 13 should be obtainable with just a solid lifter 302, but roller wise heads are key, on mine i'm using a Rouche Type cast head, a good trick with small blocks is running 351 heads, it really helps a lot. cam wise i can't help much cuz i have a custom ground earson, this is all in a 347 though that i'm shooting to be a low 12 street car before i tweek it more, but it's an 89 Roller HO block
Is the cam you're thinking about running a roller? You just put that it's a hyd. I'm running an 86 roller (T-Bird short blk) E7 heads, exh worked a little, 2.79 gears, stock conv, shifting around 4,000 (till I replaced the stock valve springs) Still sorting out some stuff, but it's gone low 9's in the 1/8, which looking at the conversion, is mid/low 14's in the 1/4. I think my cam is stock, I got it new from a guy that pulled it from a rebuilt short block, was supposed to be HO, but the firing order is wrong, so I figure it's small (.420?) I would get some E7's like already suggested, sell the 289's...That way you can run stock valvetrain from the stuff you already have. Or just use the E6's for now...I think you'll be where you want then.
I had a 89 Mustang GT. E7 heads, X303 Ford Motorsports cam, T5 , 273 gears. This was a great setup xcept the gears, 373 or more are needed with this cam. The E6 heads are junk, thats why Ford only used them 1 year and the E7 ran until the GT40P heads replaced them in 1996.
