Thanks for the great advice, gives me a lot of confidence. I have done engines, but this is my first serious transmission job. This reminds me of... years ago I had a Bronco (boy do I miss that truck) I was on the EBR forum and on that forum there was Big Al an experienced mechanic who often gave great tips just like you do. I really appreciate your help.
Be sure to lubricate the seal lip and the converter snout. If you install that seal dry it will not last long. Use a thin film (.010") of gasket maker by loc-tite on the case where the seal goes in to make sure it seals around the outside diameter of the seal. Make sure to seat the converter all the way into the pump. If it is not seated then the pump gears will break and you will have repairs to make after pulling it out again. Paul
Interesting thread. Will likely be my next project after I (if I EVER) get the carpet and seats in... Any suggestions on how big a workbench I will need? Mine is only about 3-1/2'X3' metal topped rollaway bench. Just not sure how much room will be needed for disassembly/reassembly. I am guessing that once the bellhousing is gone and the tailshaft housing, the actual "transmission" is fairly small...
Minimum size for work bench would be about 6 feet by 2 1/2 feet. A few small parts bins will help keep the small parts separate and the bottom 4 inches of a gallon bleach jug works to soak the clutches and bands in before you install them. You will need a small solvent tank and air. Lots of light, shop towels and news paper helps to keep things clean. Some vaseline, 2 qts of type F ATF, and a tube of gasket maker by loc-tite are good to have on hand. You will want to write down all the clearances as you pull it apart so that when it goes back together you can figure the clearances that you need and the washers and lock rings to make it right. Paul
I wondered about that, since the last trans shop I went to the guy had a metal table with gutters all around, maybe 8' long and 3-4" deep...
I bet they are...What little tranny work I have done has resulted in me doing "the splits" multiple times on my garage floor. I am not that limber...
Gutters or a flange all the way around with a drain in the middle. With the center drain you can catch the fluid in a five gallon bucket and dispose of it with ease.
The transmission is out, I removed the transmission today all by my self.:Handshake Before I had fabricated an transmission adaptor for my floor jack and placed the comet on floor stands high enough to be able to roll the transmission from under the car on the jack. This is how I did it. 1. Removed the drive shaft I did not drain the transmission so I put a plastic blind-plug (40mm) in the end seal. 2. Removed the pass side header. 3. Removed the starter. 4. Removed all the bolts from the bellhousing, and the nuts holding the converter to the flexplate (gave up on the drain plug it was damaged) 5. Disconnected the speedometer cable, cooler lines, vacuum lines, shifter, and the electrical connections. 6. Placed the jack under the pan and strapped the transmission on the adaptor. 7. Removed the 2 bolts holding the transmission crossmember. 8. Lowered the jack until the crossmember was free from the body. 9. Put a piece of wood between the engine oil pan and the engine lower crossmember for the engine to sit on. 10. Pushed the jack back and lowered the transmission. 11. Rolled the jack with the transmission from under the car Will post pictures here later, and maybe some questions for you guys
way to go... before you...wipe or clean anything...check the oil pattern and see if it is the shaft seal or the pump seal leaking. ...shaft seal will sling oil all around inside the bellhousing. ...pump seal will drain straight down. ...frank...
Here are some pictures. The shaft seal is all dented after being installed with the wrong tool, probably a small drift. The sealing area on the converter is scored. The diameter of the new TCI converter is much smaller than the old converter, but the height and bolt pattern seems to be the same. The converter is not covered in oil, so I'm a little worried about the pump seal.
Didn't do much today, Cleaned up the outside of the transmission. Removed the front seal and installed new without any problems. Used an old sleeve from a bearing and a tube to carefully drive the new seal in. Test fitted the new converter, fits the transmission perfectly, but I will have to drill or file out the holes in the flex-plate a little (0,5 to 1mm) tested with two flex-plates I have, and it won't fit without modification, the bolts on the TCI are bigger. I also discovered that the new converter doesn't have a drain plug.
Not having a drain plug is more or less normal now but bolt pattern not fitting is a bad thing. Can you file those holes out and keep things in balance? I would call the maker and ask what the deal was. If it doesn't fit it isn't right.
Have had several aftermarket flex plate's with same problem. Quality control is not alway's a factor in some mfg. plant's oversea's. If you measure your converter bolt pattern and it is off from advertised, then definately would get hold of TCI and tell them about it. Sound's like your mounting bolt diameter's are the problem. Would still call TCI and ask them the reasoning behind it(the squeaky wheel usually get's the oil) metric vs SAE mfg. use, is another area to look at. Could be they use bolts with a bit tighter fit on the threads, than normal, to keep the bolts from loosening up. This would sometimes cause the diameter to be a bit larger as you describe. Have had to file out several of mine also, not removing very much material in the process, never seemed to hurt the balance issue though. Building full blown race engine's where the builder wants the balance figures to a + or - 00grams, etc, may have some concerns on any filing or such done on the rotating assy. I think you are doing a fine job of detailed work and should end up with a quality result.
