C-4 Tranny 76 302 Maverick What tools will I need? What tips do you have? ( is there a special order of removal that will make things easier?) How long will it take? Should I just get a different or new one? Photos would be nice… my main problem with the transmission is that reverse works when it wants to. Any help would be great…
my own opinion is to drain the fluid first by taking the bolts out of the tranny pan. do the rear ones first so the pan will drop downward and drain into a large container. retighten the pan, pull the driveshaft. i put a plastic baggie around the tailshaft and tape it tightly to stop any fluid from draining out the rear. disconnect the linkage and the lines going to the radiator. might be a little leakage there so try to keep them as high as you can. i bought a tranny jack from harbor freight. they are $69 normally. sometimes you can find them on sale for$49. don't get the one that fits into a floor jack. crank this up under the tranny, disconnect the tranny to engine bolts (6). pull the crossmember and drop the tranny. if you have a couple of friends help, you could probably get away without the jack. however when you pull the tranny back the torque convertor has a tendency to fall out. one way to stop this is to put a bolt through a hole in the tranny and the round end of a combination wrench and have the other end of the wrench hold the convertor in. also with the tranny jack you need to have the car up pretty high. i usually put the car as high as i can on 4 jackstands, than lift it as high as i can with a floor jack and a 4x4. naturally i'm not under the car anymore and i just push the jack and tranny out with a rod, then let the floorjack down again.
C4 Stuff Just a few additions to Don's post. Assuming this is your first attempt at this, I suggest you get a helper and some rags and oil dry. It can be messy no matter how careful you are. A large square plastic storage box is great for draining the fluid, they are pretty cheap and have a lid so you can use it over again or whatever. Also you might want to disconnect the battery even though it's not necessary it is peace of mind. If you have headers, they must be removed on the starter side or at least loosened on both sides and wired up to one side. Regular exhaust systems will require removal of the pipes from the manifolds etc. Disconnect the cable from the starter and remove it from the bellhousing(may require use of some long extensions and ratchet on the top bolt especially. Then start to remove the bell housing bolts, one holds the trans dip stick tube and after taking it out pull the tube out of the trans. Remove the inspection cover for the flexplate and have a helper turn the engine over with a 15/16th's deep socket and ratchet usiing the harmonic balancer crank bolt on the front bottom pulley. Remove the converter attaching bolts, after leaving one of the bell housing bolts down under, in and having jacked the engine up off the rear crossmember, take it out and slowly slide the trans off the two alighning dowels(may take some force to get it off) Try to keep the engine in the same location as far as height goes for installation purposes's. As far as the trans jack goes, they are great but sometimes a bit hard to use if the car cannot be raised real high, I have always used a floor jack and piece of wood on the pan but it must be placed so the trans will balance and is also very prone to sliding off if not careful(extra hand from helper will help. I suggest you try and get a shop that exchanges transmissions for speed of reinstallation or one that can rebuild yours in a short time. They will also recommend a new converter, which is normal and also inexpensive, for their warranty. If you can, have them put a drain plug in the pan for future ease of maintenance in servicing the filter etc. Forgot to menton to use a regular tubing wrench on the cooler line fittings because normally the open end wrenches will round off the fittings and then they are a bear to get out if at all. This job can get frustrating as far as getting at some bolts and nuts and fittings etc. but hang in there and have patients it can be done by anyone. While your at it check the rear mount for cracks or seperation and replace it too. U-joints need looking at also, saves a lot of head aches later on. When installing the new one first pour a qt. of fluid in the converter and install it by rotating until it seats fully into the front pump(put a little vaseline on the snout first to lube the seal as it goes in) this may take a little practice to hear the clunks as it aligns with the the pump drive slots. The mouting bolts or studs should be at least 1/4 to back from the bellhousing mounting surface and also make sure the fluid drain plug in the converter(if it has one) is lined up with the hole in the flexplate. reassemble everything in reverse of removal and then put in about 5qts of "Good" type F fluid. I always pull the coil wire and crank the engine over to make sure no noises or grinding crap is noticed. Then fire it up and let idle for a bit, check the fluid level and add some, run it through each gear and if all is ok take her for a spin. Sorry for being so long here but thats a big job ahead of you. Probably will take about 3to4 hours on your part to remove it the first time out, gets easier later on if you want to do one again????
Thanks... My Maverick want's to go in reverse every-now-and-then. Is there a reverse band on the transmission that I can tighten without removing the transmission? or is it something internal, the Intermediate servo or foward clutch?
Common Ford problem...I think the problem is in the column, linkage, or bushings are worn out on the linkage. Maybe all 3.
thanks old guy, i was tired and forgot to mention the torque convertor bolts and the headers. i gotta say though that the tranny jack is a lifesaver. like you said though, you've gotta get the car up high. if you do use the tranny jack, when you get the tranny down to ground level and jack the car higher. don't get under it. push it out with a stick or pipe or something. then let it back down onto the jacstands. reverse the procedure putting it in. guess i like the jack cause i'm usually doing the work alone.
column (is there another name for it?) Is it the output shaft? linkage (is there another name for it?) bushings are worn out on the linkage. Maybe all 3. Are the "Bushings" the bands in the transmission? I can’t find those words in my book. I should be able to adjust the bands from some bolts on the transmission? Should I try that first? Thanks for the help!! __________________
None of those parts are in the transmission. They are located at the bottom of the steering column under the hood. It is the linkage that goes from the steering column to the transmission. Sounds like you are rather green on the subject...maybe you better leave it to a pro.
So my reverse problem is in the steering linkage? I hear a loud bang if I wait for the transmission to go into reverse…. Wouldn’t that be a band….. I don’t get what the steering has to do with the transmission… And yes I’m “green” , but I’m only going to learn from doing. So that Chilton’s manual will come in handy.
The shifter levers are on the steering column . If you look you will see there are rods connecting your transmission to your steering column . If the bushings that keep the rods in proper alignment are worn out the selector indents in your transmisson and the indents of the selector handle on the column are not syncronized . This means when you put the transmission lever in " D " it will be stuck between the neutral and Drive indent in your transmission . Clear as mud now ?
I just put new bushings on the linkage of my 70 and it shifts like a new car. There are two sizes and Ford still carries them. Here are the part numbers for what Ford calls insulators: E0BZ-7341-B E0SZ-7341-B Tom
