what's a good cheap radiator for a 302 swap?

what's a good cheap radiator for a fuel injected 5.0 swapped into a 69 with original I6 carb motor??? I tried just for the hell of it fitting in my radiator from my 89 5.0 mustang, but it was considerably too big. It will be used with a T5 transmission, so preferrably, I'd like to get a radiator made for an auto transmission so it has provisions for transmission cooling lines, but by not using them and plugging them off, I can get increased cooling capacity. Anyone know of what I can use??? I can custom fabricate mounting brackets if neccessary, just need something that fits, and can be used with a reverse rotation 5.0 waterpump.

 

You can buy new radiators for v8 Mavericks.Falcon,Early Mustang/Fairlane will probably work too.Alot of the earlier unibody cars use rads of similiar dimensions.If the 6cyl radiator is in good shape,it'll work ok till you get the right one.

 

are the v8 radiators for maverick universal accross all years, or do I have to get something specific for 69?

 

i could recommend one.. but i dont think you want 500 useless posts

 

Just get one for a v8 car w/A/C.BTW there was no v8 available in 69-70 so tell 'em it's a '71-up.Pretty sure all the bolt holes will line up(mine did)

 

A universal one from summit or jegs is considerably cheaper than a stock replacement unit from Proliance (formerly Modine). If you can build some brackets to mount it, you're money ahead and have a better radiator for the trouble.

 

Just something to think about.
These cars have a closed engine bay with solid side panels.
With a V8 and headers, the airflow is restricted quite a bit.
What this means is with airflow restricted, the air thru the radiator also slows and blocks up if it can't get out of the bay fast enough.
An example of this is the tendency of the hood rear to raise when hot footing. The air pressure just can't get out fast enough.
This causes the cooling system not to keep up with it's job under hot ambient temps and a bit of beating on for power.
The best you can do is have a large custom build to fit the opening, use higher system pressure caps and better hoses to handle the higher pressures.
This raises the boiling point of coolant.
A greater flow water pump would also help and open the side panel some to help out flow.
I have learned these things from my 73 GT and running a sprint car with a 500 hp 358 race engine on 1/2 mile dirt at rpm as high as 7800.
The radiator is custom to fit inside a small sprint car frame. The water pump is Stewart and the system pressures run as high as 30 psi without overheating. A 14" electric fan is the backup when needed.
Most think cooling is a simple matter but it's quite complex when all the factors are taken into acount..

 

Taking this into account, I tried to overdo it when I installed my recent radiator. Figured, "I may as well overcool it, and make adjustments to try to warm it up, rather than fight to keep it cool".

If you have the skills to fab up some brackets (really not as easy as it sounds ) the Summit Circle Track radiator in 22X19 is a pretty good fit without having to cut into the frame of the car. Part # GRI-1-26182-X, and it is manufactured by Griffin. $199 with free shipping.

I mounted mine by cutting some of the existing apron away to move the radiator forward a couple inches for clearance of other engine parts, including electric fan, but you could use this without cutting.





I have since put on a more professional looking top mount...what is pictured was just temporary to hold it for fitting and verifying space clearances.

Currently runs quite cool, around 170 on hot days. I need to put in a hotter thermostat, like a 180 rather than the 160 I am using, and put in a switch so the fan does not turn on until it is up to 190 or so.

 

Here's Your Cooling Solution

 

I had my 6cyl rad recored to a maxi core[my tanks weren't big enough to add extra rows] on a 80 degree day my car runs 160-180 depending on traffic and i don't even turn the fan on when i'm on the highway.I also have a 160 stat i would rather have it run a little on the cool side then to already be at 195 with little room to play with.

 

A 3 core for a '70 Mustang with a 302 is a perfect, bolt in fit. That is what is in my car (thanks Dan), and it works too well. I've had to put cardboard in font of half the radiator the past couple of months just so the engine will get above 120 degrees on cold mornings (daily driver).

 

i have a 69 4 row from a mustang.. it fits perfect, but i had to have the lower rad hose fitting un-soldered and moved to the other side.. this could be part of my over heating problem in arizona, it might be too restrictive.. but i moved to iowa now, and there are no more heating problems with it

 

i use this radiator Summit #SUM-380425, look up member M.A.V. he has some nice pictures of that radiator, it goes from frame rail to frame rail. fairly cheap too

 

Nothing wrong with alittle room to play with. Have you tried a 180 stat?
RTFLDGR

 

I'm shopping around for a radiator too. I have a 76 with a 302 and no A/C. So far the best OEM price I can find is at Autozone part # 433882. They go for $126. This part number seems wrong. When I cross check that on the Transpro.com website it comes to a Chrysler radiator. I think our part number should be 433423... Oh well.

I'd like to upgrade to an aluminum, but I'd have to replace my hoses if I went with the summit one mentioned above. My inlet is 1.25" and outlet is 1.5". And is that radiator a direct bolt in or would I have to fashion some brackets?