so i pull the valve cover and i find...

Discussion in 'Technical' started by random hero, Mar 23, 2007.

  1. random hero

    random hero 1972 ford maverick I6

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    chunks of something from inside the valve spring, you can see where it broke off. not sure what it is or how to fix it. any ideas, my dad is going crazy and wants to pull the head and send it out, but i dont think i have to
     
  2. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    You probably need to replace the valve seals. They are rubber, and get old and brittle and fall apart.
     
  3. random hero

    random hero 1972 ford maverick I6

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    would this explain my "blow by" and ridiculously fast oil burning...?
     
  4. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Yeah, I was quite scared when I first pulled my oil pan off. I found these brittle chunks and freaked out. Someone mentioned valve seals, and I thought no way, these are fiberglass, or hard plastic, or something.

    They turn hard after a while and break into chunks, and then clog your oil pump.

    Immediately drop your oil pan, remove the oil pump and pickup, and clean the chunks out. Hopefully, your oil consumption isn't from worn parts due to lack of lubrication:cry:

    Then use this opportunity for a head swap or at least have the head(s) ported and rebuilt with new seals, maybe have the valves lapped. Might find some bent valves or poor sealing in the process.
     
  5. DGerhardt

    DGerhardt Member

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    This will have a big effect on your oil consumption, but it will not have any control over blow by because blow by is caused by worn rings/cylinder bore. That being said it should slow down the oil consumption but if you are pumping the oil top side past the rings you will still continue to burn oil, how much will depend on the amount of blow by.
    Dave
     
  6. spork1o1

    spork1o1 Member

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    If you need a set of new valve stem seals send me your address. I got a set with a rebuild kit that I do not need.
     
  7. random hero

    random hero 1972 ford maverick I6

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    thank you, but my mechanic said he has some...he was coming up tomorrow...well today, hopefully there the right ones, if not i will definetly send you a message
     
  8. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    seals

    Your valve seals are history. Probably the rings, and bearings are to. Lots of mileage and time on the engine will do that. Timing chain probably isn't real great either.
     
  9. hotrod-daddy

    hotrod-daddy Member

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    Fresh valve seals will keep your engine from burning so much oil.......I would invest in a new set of spark plugs(y)
     
  10. fan2488

    fan2488 Member

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    can you change valve seals, while the heads are still on the engine?
     
  11. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    i would bet that those missing seals is why you are burning oil
     
  12. Blown74

    Blown74 Member

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    valve seals

    Yes you can... replace them all, new plugs and drop the pan and oil pump as noted above. Clean everything out and reinstall. While heavy smoke is generally caused by bad or weak rings etc, bad seals dumping loads of oil into cylinders surely dosen't help.
     
  13. igo1090

    igo1090 Member

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    yes u can. air line that screws into spark plug port to hold valves closed with air pressure, valve spring compressor that works when head is on car.
     
  14. hotrod-daddy

    hotrod-daddy Member

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    Most part stores will have a vavle spring compressor
     
  15. 1972Grabber

    1972Grabber Always Broke

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    This is the "I don't have a compressor" way of doing the seals without removing the head.

    Yep. Get some small line (small nylon rope) from Wally world and remove the plugs.

    When the piston is at the portion of its stroke (with both valves closed) you can feed the rope into the cylinder until you can not get anymore into it.

    DO NOT pack it in the cylinder with a screwdriver and ALWAYS leave about a foot or so hanging out of the spark plug hole.

    Rotate the crank up until you can feel the rope compressing into the head and ultimately the valves.

    When the rope is compressed into the valves you can remove the keepers and springs and the valves will stay in place while you replace the stem seals.

    Repeat for the other 7 or 5 cylinders as appropriate.
     

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