Towing! There is more to this story than meets the eye. A. What is the puller going to be? B. What is the gross combined weight? c. Electric brakes and controller! D. Is the puller set up for towing, an automatic? Here are some rough ways to get an idea. 1. Maverick weight of 3000 lbs +/-. 2. Trailer weight about 1800 lbs +/- 3. Add the puller weight. Is it over the limits of the puller for GVW? etc. It all makes a difference if you want reliability over the long term. I have been towing for the last 3 years, GVW's of 12,000 lbs with an F150 and still the truck is on the light side for this kind of abuse. The above is only meant to get you to look at what you are really doing.
One more thing...Towing with front wheels up and a spooled rearend on the ground...Any more abuse to the tires/axles than just driving on the spool?
This is the Crazy Canuct as the 5947 calls me. Ya I dollied my Mav from New Mexico to Toronto, Canada BUT you cannot tow with rear wheels on the dollie. the front of the car is like a flag when the rear wheels are fastened down on the dollie. As John said ,its a weight in balance problem. When I left the hotel in NM I had the car rear wheels on the dollie. didnt even get outta town when the car started waving loke a flag. Boy did all the other traffic give me lottsa room.( I know how to tow a vehicle behind me as I have flat towed cars to the race track for years and I am what some call a Professional truck driver with over 3 million miles accident free.) I then pulled into a mall in NM and switched the car around so that the cars front axle and engine were on the dollie. pulled the drive shaft and put in a extra front yoke in the trans and towed at 60 -65 with no problems and that is using a Chev Astro van as a tow vehicle. Front drive shaft yokes are a dime a dozen as every1 has drive shafts for C4,s laying around. just slide into rear of trans after you pull your drive shaft and hold in place with a bungy cord thur the 2 holes from where the U joint used to be. Always remember to go safely or don"t go, and take your time. My RON
thanks for the advice. it always pays to ask the experienced. i simply do not have room for a trailer so i will have to buy a dolly. they sell some locally with surge brakes. it doen't appear to be a big deal to pull the driveshaft. just a few extra minutes. daydreamer-- great tip on the backward/forward towing issue. the tip on the extra driveshaft yoke is a good one too. ANYONE HAVE AN EXTRA YOKE THEY WANT TO DONATE? i will pay for the shipping. the tow vehicle is a 2001 dodge ram, automatic w/towing package, 360 v-8 i am looking at a mastertow unit with surge brakes. it seems to be a well built unit for the best price.
Living and towing in Florida, you don't need a dolly with brakes. Your truck should stop itself and the car fine.
towed a 2500# car last weekend on a dolly with an e150 van in pa. 150 miles up & down hills. no dolly brakes; no problems stopping. just leave a little more cushion room & dont tailgate.
I towed with a Uhaul trailer (which weighed as much as, or more than my Maverick) and vow to never do that again. Even with a 360HP hemi truck, it was hell on the gas mileage and really was a heavy haul. I may have to haul the mav to Alaska from Houston (about 5000 miles!!!), and need to find a lighter pull. Either an aluminum trailer to buy, or using a dolly. I don't really want to pull 6000 pounds across the US and Canada for 5000 miles! I just want to make sure I don't screw anything up (mainly the spooled rear). I guess I could put my front tires on the back for less grip on the road so they will chirp easier...
Buy a car trailer and split on it with a few good buddies, then one of them can store it. Thats my plan
according to florida law if the pulled vehicle is over 3000 lbs then brakes are required on the dolly. i know a dolly without brakes is alot cheaper but i think i should err on the side of safety and follow the rules. i am watching one on ebay that would be a good buy if it doesn't go to high.
