Well, I made my first passes on a 1/4mile tonight. A track about 60miles from here(Atlanta) in Commerce had a open track night. With my 3-spd on the column and slippery stock rear-end, I turned a 15.56@88mph. I didn't think this was too bad, and I really think with nothing but a 5spd and a good rearend(something better than a 3.00 and posi) i could break into the 14s. I was nervous at first, but then there were ricers everywhere barely breaking 20 so i felt better. I made three passes, first was against a 10second nova, and the other 2 again mid 16's Civics. I did see a couple civic hatchbacks running mid 12's though. Saw a couple stangs get their asses handed to them! Anyway, its one thing from the stands, but to be down there is a whole different thing.
one more thing Oh yeah, thought I'd mention I was the ONLY comet/mav out there. Mostly new mustangs, but there were soo many ricers.
Sounds like you did well. There has to be a starting place some where. Now the enthusiasum will build to see what can be done to get more traction, change the timing, jeting and all the little tricks to lower the ET. Its become the fun of learning. Just ask OLD GUY. He started with tennis shoes and look where he is today, big inch engines and the like..
So does that sound pretty good? I mean you know what I've done, a performer cam 204/214, a performer intake, and a edelbrock 650. Thats it. Does the rearend and tranny swap seem like the best way to get better times?
Rear gear first with posi. You need to figure what gear will take you over the line at an RPM that you feel the motor does not pull any more in high gear. That can take a while to find out. Its a matter of keep lowereing as the ET gets lower 'on an average' and then starts to go up again (over wound). Keep in mind as you get faster, tire hook up starts to influence the ET. One thing chases another, an increase in power and Rpm capability then again changes the setup to get the most. Its -welcome to racing. Thats what those people are doing at test and tune
Therein lies my dilemna I know that a lower rearend will get me faster ETs, but right now I have the stock 3spd on the column and a 3.00 rearend. If I change the rearend w/out changing the tranny, I won't be able to drive it the 55 miles to the strip. At 80mph I'm already turning 3500ish rpm. A trailer queen is not in my future either. So...I need to swap both together. I am interested in either a T-5 or a tremec 3550. I know the tremec is a lot more costly, but I figure I pay it once and then drive it forever, whereas if I go for a T-5, even rebuilt worldclass, I've heard enough stories to make me question its integrity over the long haul. I know that a T-5 would be more than enough for my current piddling HP, but I plan to put a Probe 347 stroker it the car eventually (430HP) and I don't want to need to buy another tranny then. Tell me what you think.
Time Slips and more. I think you did real well for first time out and a three speed column shifter. Being nervous is normal, reminds me of 40 yrs ago when I left drag racing and went the circle track gig on dirt. Had a 34 Plymouth coupe(263ci Desoto 6 cyl), my first time out I was shaking like a leaf in the fall, had to have a buddy help fasten the seat belt. As soon as the engine fired and I got on the track it felt as if I was at home in that race car. No place I would rather be even now. I think you have also been bitten and hopefully will stay with it for a long time. Just a little comment on some things you have mentioned, I am partial to the auto trans in my cars because of the consistency of the trap times. There are a lot of Tremics and such running in the Pro No Electronics class but expensive and breakage is quite high. If you are running street class and love those gear changes, more power to you. Traction problems are a little more severe with the std. trans but they are a blast to drive and learn the launch techniques and shift points. A nine inch rear would probably be mandatory, especially with high horse power engines. For now you will probably be a little wiser to get a trac-loc and a floor shifter then work on your reaction times and 60ft numbers. Those two things will win more races than pure HP, especially in bracket racing, if that is what you are doing. A set of inexpensive traction bars and some 90/10 shocks on the front will also help. Keep a log of each race day and run. Temperature, humidity, and all other info pertaining to the cars performance, after a few runs you will begin to see a pattern of performance and can do some adjusting to things to improve it. Don't change a whole bunch of things at once because it will only confuse things when the car does not improve, slow calculated additions to the car will tell if they are right or wrong for your application. Believe me I have wasted a bank full of money on stuff that either made the car run worse or stay the same. There are a lot more knowledgeable people on this board than me and all will gladly help you with your questions. As the old saying goes, keep it straight and the pedal to the metal.
Fast & furious, is only for the movies The name of the game is to be "Consistent". 3500 RPMs x 3.00 ratio x 80 mph, says you have about a 23" tire? Mighty small. Put a 3.55 Auburn posi unit in there, with about 26-27" tall tires. Like Old Guy said, I'd go with a good C-4, beefed up, with a little better convertor & better shifter. Get rid of the steel factory rims and get you a set of Drag Lites and good ARP 3" wheel studs. Other then headers, good ignition, cooling system, and maybe new rod/main bearing and new oil pump and pump shaft, I'd leave the engine pretty much stock. If you haven't changed to a roller timing gear set, yet, get them in there. Timing chains take a beating during racing. Do a good valve job on the heads, port out the exhaust, new valve springs, better rocker arms and pushrods. If you can run the sametime, everytime, you'll be in the winner circle more then the people that just go fast. How close you can run to your "dail in" makes the difference. That and how good a light you cut. Even the super fast Super Stock classes, running your dial in is the key. If you can't run the same time each time you'll only beat yourself by running to fast. Only the Pro classes worry who can go the fastest. Also the faster you go the more safety equipment you have to have, and the more parts you'll break.
An auto will be faster on the strip. But if you want to keep your stick and have OD (I agree ) Then your best bet is the Tremec 3550 or TKO. I have a T-5 because was cheap. But a Tremec will bolt right in, using your current bellhousing, linkage, and all, a BIG plus. Some 4.11s and a tranny with 4 speeds (that 2-3 shift is probably killing you) will help, but look into headers and a good exhaust system too.
something is killing you, and I am willing to bet, along with everyone else that it is the trans. I have seen a bone stock 302 maverick with the original 2 bbl carb click off two consecutive mid-late 14 second quarter miles. With the engine set up you have, and with a good trans, I would easily expect you should be in the 14's no prob. Good luck, be careful, the bug bites you hard, and you become obsessed!!
congratulations on getting started. thats the hard part. it's all easy from here on. just ask me. if you want i can put you on the mailing list for my new book when it is finished. it's called " 1000 ways to lose a bracket race". really, go and have some fun. thats what it's all about. if you really want the stick tranny. i would definitely put a front line lock in to hold the car on the starting line (keeps you from rolling in to the lights when you dont want to) and i would get an msd 6AL ignition box. the AL is for auto limiter. put a chip in at the rpm you select and if (when) you miss a shift you won't be seeing your engine all over the track. besides keeping a log of every run get a weather station to tell you how the weather is changing. i use a radio shack model (about $25) that gives temp and humidity. some guys go all out and get some pretty fancy units. if you really want to see all the toys you can buy get a summit or jegs catalog. they are free and you can order them online. good luck and have fun
btw, if you go with the 5 speed, get a pro 5.0 shifter. It is absolutely amazing, and you will never miss the 2-3 shift again like I did b4 I got the shifter!
Pro 5.0 Guys, thanks for all the suggestions. My funds being the limiting factor(like always) my big expenditures this summer are disc brakes, shocks, springs, swaybars, and a PST bushing set. But after that I'm saving for a rearend and tranny. As for the shifter, its funny you say that. I'm familiar with the shifter, and my friend has one on his 99 mustang. He myself and another friend with a stock '02 mustang went to the track together, and he's the one that missed shifts! He made 3 passes, missed 3rd on the first two, and 4th on the last. (how you miss 4th i dunno) Anyway he was telling our other buddy he should get one, but it wasn't very convincing with him missing shifts! But yes, I have shifted one, I really liked it and I plan to get one as part of the tranny swap.
stick or auto The only real advantage a stick has now a days, is you can use any cam you want and not have it bang in/out of gear. I've used both and it just depends. Race only or mostly street. Street go Auto, racing, I still lean toward a auto. They just don't break as much parts and run more consistent. Autos have come a long way in the last 30 yrs.
I have the Tremec in my Mustang and love it, I have the stock Tremec shifting internals with a tri-ax handle from steeda and have been very happy. If all you want to do is go in a straight line, an auto is great, but downshifting through a turn on an auto cross course is way to much fun!
