It's Always Something

Discussion in 'Technical' started by 20cows, Jun 22, 2007.

  1. 20cows

    20cows Member

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    Yesterday morning I replaced the starter on my truck because the recoil spring wasn't pulling the starter drive away from the flywheel very quickly.

    That evening I purchased a three gauge cluster to put in the maverick while on a regular 80 mile round trip to the city. Just as I was pulling into town, the maverick's oil pressure light flickered when the engine went to idle at a stop sign. It did it again in the driveway.

    It's always somethig....

    ( May have something to do with driving a couple of 30+ y.o. vehicles)
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2007
  2. rayzorsharp

    rayzorsharp I "AM" a Maverick!

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    You said it right there! Good luck with it
     
  3. MNTony

    MNTony aka Godzirra

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    Hang in there...at least you aren't making payments! Oh and check your oil level before getting worried. I can't tell you how many times low oil level caused my light to come on.
     
  4. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    Check the oil.
     
  5. rayzorsharp

    rayzorsharp I "AM" a Maverick!

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    Might not hurt to change it while yer at it...could just be worn down if it doesn't check low.
     
  6. 20cows

    20cows Member

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    Oil level is fine. Less than 1000 miles on the oil change.

    Today I spent over 10 hours trying to get three instrument gauges installed. At the end of the day, I had one hooked up.

    Very frustrating.

    I'll get some pictures in a few.
     
  7. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    might want to change to 30 wt. if you haven't already. at least for the summer, in the heat.
     
  8. 20cows

    20cows Member

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    I run 10W-40.

    Like I said, the plan was to put in a three gauge cluster today. I got started around 10:00 this morning after taking care of some other chores.

    I started with a lot of head scratching on where to put the gauges. The only realistic choice (I thought) was to do the same thing I did in my truck and center them under the dash directly over the transmission housing.

    This didn't work.

    There isn't enough clearance for the drill to go there. So I moved under the radio (I'd put it in the radio slot, but my daughter thinks she needs that).

    The provided screws were too short.

    I had some that were too long, so I shortened them.

    The only available hole in the firewall:
    [​IMG]

    Is directly behind the AC/heater.

    So I made another (took two hole saw drills to get through).
    [​IMG]

    All day went like this. One problem lead to another.

    10 hours of work:
    [​IMG]

    Oh yeah, you can't see it well from the driver's seat going straight. Here it is-
    [​IMG]

    And it works!

    I have found two places that I CAN'T put the temp sending unit, but I have NOT found where I CAN. Where is the factory sending unit in this mess?
    [​IMG]

    All the emission control crap had been removed from my truck engine before I got it 20 years ago. It has made my life relatively simple.
    [​IMG]


    Tomorrow is another day.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2007
  9. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    Actually.....you could have pulled out the factory "blank" plug on the firewall behind the AC/Heater box and there is enough room to run the wires/etc. thru there. Your hand will fit right thru there so you can feed the wires out.

    The factory temp sending unit is on the BACK of the motor.
     
  10. 20cows

    20cows Member

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    What a difference a day makes!

    A fresh approach and it all went together today.

    Then I cranked 'er up and began to see what the gauges had to say.

    At first start up:
    [​IMG]

    Oil pressure was about 32 pounds and the voltage looked good, but as the engine warmed up, the pressure began to drop.

    At 70 mph:
    [​IMG]

    Oil pressure is down to about 15 psi, but the temp is holding a steady 193*.

    At idle in gear, the pressure dropped down to about 5 pounds and the temp stayed ok.
    [​IMG]

    At no time during the test drive did the oil press warning light come on (how low does it have to get?). Since this is the first time I've put the gauge to it and the car performed Just as it has the whole time I've had it (~4 months), I must assume it has been opperating on low pressure all this time.

    It may be time to put in a new oil pump (a first for me).
     
  11. Country Mav

    Country Mav Die-Hard Ford Guy!

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    Wow! That seems low......anybody know what these engines usually run at? That's where I put my guages too by the way. Do you burn oil? Use oil? Try the Lucas Oil Stabilizer......I've used it in my 302 along with Castrol 10w-30 since I broke it in. I really think it helps. And it is THICK!! Might bring the pressure up a bit. I don't know but it might be worth a shot. Anyway, good luck!! Preston
     
  12. MNTony

    MNTony aka Godzirra

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    Is that a mechanical or electrical gauge? If the engine is running fine as normal...I'd suspect the gauge or sending unit (if it's electric). I'd be inclined to put another mechanical gauge on it just to confirm what it says before tearing into the motor.
     
  13. 20cows

    20cows Member

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    The engine has just over 70,000 original miles on it and it does not burn oil. The Chilton's Manual states the pressure should be between 40 and 60 psi @ 2000 rpm.

    It is a mechanical gauge.
     
  14. mcknight77

    mcknight77 Member

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    Yep, next is the oil pump.
     
  15. Tylar Miles

    Tylar Miles Try try try let it ride..

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    Either the oil pump or most likely the oil gauge. my 250 with 228,000 miles holds 60psi when cold, 20psi at warm idle, 45psi at 75mph and 5 psi if you stop quick. It's running 10W-30 oil.
     

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