Well, now I have a big problem... I spotted it today as I was cleaning the block. One of the motor mount bolt holes is broken in half. This is not from me, as it shows some signs of someone trying to weld it back on. Of course, it didn't hold. View attachment 22322 View attachment 22323 View attachment 22324 The good news of this whole thing, it's only broken in half, and there is still about 5/16" of threads left inside the hole. So, my question is, what now?? Do I scrap the motor, or like I was thinking: I am going to drill in further between 1/4" and 5/16". Tap in new threads, and JB weld a piece of all-thread about 3-4" long into it and use it as a stud. Then, try and salvage the broken off piece from the bolt, and JB weld that back on (first) so the motor mount has the correct alignment. Will this work? Please help, I've spent much time and money for this and would really like it to turn out. Thanks,
I wouldn't drill the block deeper. You don't really know how thick it is in that area. I personally would put in a longer bolt into the threads that still exist and then take a turnbuckle going from the power steering pump to the chassis to keep pressure off of the replacement bolt. That's my 2 cents, take it for what it's worth. Good luck!!!
Find yourself a good welder. Get the right size bolt with a long threaded shaft. Cut the head and unthreaded section off. Weld the threaded stud in what is left of the hole. use a nut on the bottom side of the motor mount.
Now, if I got this right,,,Your looking for 300-350 horse range on this engine. Why start out with that block patched up and keeping your fingers crossed on not breaking again? Money rules, thats for sure. This is no stock rebuild or something that has to be done as cheaply possible. Yes the above fixes are good solutions, but there are still many of these blocks around! Just my thoughts, just hate to see a post later where engine broke an took tranny out with it. Up in your neck of the woods you should be able to find a rebuildable $50-100 fairly easy. Good Luck
Used 302 blocks are a dime a dozen. If you want new and want to avoid some of the machine work, here is an option: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SES%2D5%2D60%2D04%2D200&autoview=sku
Yup, it's not worth the effort and expense to have it repaired when their still so easy to find. If you lived around here I'd give you a bare block.
I missed the summit deal.. (wasn't looking) THAT is a pretty good deal! Stock bore (good way to start, bore next rebuild) Line bored It's ready to assemble! No machine work on this one!! Plus,,,get on Route 80, head west an beat us freight companies out of our Money! If you've never been to the Original Summit, you gotta see it! don't forget to check out the bargain corner,,left rear of store
Ok please forgive me guys, but have you priced machining lately??? Even if he's given a block, he'll spend a minimum of $500 on machining just to throw the used internals into it...which is not a good plan anyway. I'd also like to say that trying to repair this is out since it's not easy to weld cast iron. The block would have to be stripped down, cleaned and then an experienced welder with cast rod would have to heat it and weld it. How do I know? Been there and tried that. If your plan is to rebuild it anyway, then by all means get another used block...but if you're just trying to get your car running again, I'd search for other options like maybe using a motor plate. Eliminate the motor mounts all together and weld a couple tabs on the frame to bolt the engine plate to. That would only cost about $125 to do and would hold a ton more horsepower than you're expecting. Once again, just my thoughts...feel free to call me cheap.
By the way, my car has manual steering... Also, here in PA, we have vehicle inspections and I doubt that would pass. More or less has to be stock all the way.
I have had blocks welded before. I did a lot of Honda and Mazda collision repairs and ran into several situations where the front mount casting of the block broke off completely as a result of the collision. I had a company that specialized cast welding do the jobs on the blocks while they were still in the cars at my shop. Never a problem. They also did a Ford 427 block that was cracked for me. It held up fine for the 3 years I beat on it. Fred
Clean the area very well and the piece that is broken off. If you can get someone the bead blast or sand blast the area then better yet. When clean put your pieces back together with a stud installed. Warm the area and MIG or TIG weld the pieces back together. That area is not criticle that you need to use Cast rod or wire. It will hold up forever. I have repired many a blocks with much more destruction than that. In fact I have repired about 30 or more V8 Chevrolet outer starter bolt holes. Thats preety much the same type of repair. Just don't go nuts with the heat of the welder. Weld half and let it cool to about 250 again then finish the other half. To much heat will cause it to crack when cooling.
For a performance engine don't do the repair. If you simply must repair the block then take it to a shop and have it oven welded or oven brazed. With cast iron the oven brazing is as strong or stronger than the base material and it will not stress the parent casting. You can get close with welding but the brass is better in my opinion and experience.
