Starting to take the 250 i6 out today..

Discussion in 'Technical' started by 75Mav91Stang, Aug 20, 2007.

  1. 75Mav91Stang

    75Mav91Stang Member

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    Any tips/pointers?

    :drive:
     
  2. 75Mav91Stang

    75Mav91Stang Member

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    I find it hard to believe that no one has any tips or anything.. :/
     
  3. 19BlacK77

    19BlacK77 Member

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    Just take your time and pay attention to what your doing. If you go slow and make sure everything is unbolted/unhooked you shouldnt have any trouble. Good luck and keep us updated on the progress. :thumbs2:
     
  4. mavmanerick

    mavmanerick burnin' rubber since '90

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    what will go in its place? 572 HEMI?
     
  5. 75Mav91Stang

    75Mav91Stang Member

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    Either that or a 302











    ;)
     
  6. 75Mav91Stang

    75Mav91Stang Member

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    :cool: I'll post pictures and stuff as the time goes on.. I was looking over it a few days ago and it doesn't seem like theres all that much stuff that needs to come out. So hopefully it'll go off without a hitch.. :rofl:
     
  7. newtoford

    newtoford Member

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    is the trans on its way out too?

    usually when im swappin an engine, even if i want to use the current trans with the new engine i pull them both out together and mate the old trans with the new engine outside the car before dumping them back in. my 250's pretty close to the rad in my car so if im ever to take it out i'd pull that 1st just to be on the safe side.

    just make sure the ignigtion wires are all undone, p/s lines, heater hoses, shifter linkage, somehin to catch the trans fluid out the back of it, trans lines out of the rad. get the fule line plugged up and out of the way.

    theres probably more but im sure you can figure it out.

    good luck
     
  8. 75Mav91Stang

    75Mav91Stang Member

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    The trans is staying with the car, it just got rebuilt so

    And good idea on pulling out the radiator, I was going to leave it in, but I might as well just take it out
     
  9. maverick1970

    maverick1970 MCG State Rep

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    Label everything you disconnect. Take detailed pictures so you can reference them.
     
  10. maverick1970

    maverick1970 MCG State Rep

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    Also have a bag of oil dry or cat litter on hand for spills.
     
  11. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Engine hoist- Designed to test the tensile strength of everything you forgot to dis-connect.
     
  12. lowriderick

    lowriderick Member

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    Good Luck !

    :clap: Congratulations the big day !

    Please try to take as many pictures as you can as you are a couple of steps ahead of me, and I will be following yours very close, I started negotiating a 302 with a guy on the phone last weekend ! and if based on your experience the swap goes smooth I may not wait until next spring to swap my engine (y) !
     
  13. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    I like to start at the bottom and work my way up. Loosen and remove both motor mount nuts. Loosen and remove the two transmission mount nuts on the bottom of the cross member. Loosen the drivers side bolt/nut that holds the transmission cross member on. Remove the nut, leave the bolt to hold the transmission up. Loosen and remove the speedometer cable (you may loose ATF). Remove the transmission shift linkage. Remove the drive shaft U Bolts at the rearend. Remove driveshaft, place something under transmission tail housing to catch the ATF.

    Moving up top, Loosen the upper and lower radiator hose clamps from the engine. Unscrew transmission cooler lines (you may loose ATF). Remove the radiator with hoses attached (you may loose coolant if you didn't drain it first). Remove 4 bolts holding the fan on and remove the fan. Pull the heater core hoses loose (you may loose coolant here also). Unplug the engine harness at the firewall (looks like a plug for trailer lights). Disconnect throttle cable (either at the engine or firewall, your choice). Disconnect the fuel line (be prepared for fuel leakage). Disconnect the three wires from the back of the alternator. Disconnect the exaust pipe from the manifold.

    Attach hoist, raise engine and transmission until transmission touches the transmission tunnel. Duck back down under the car, pull the bolt out of the cross member to allow the cross member to swing down. You can now lower the engine and trans slightly, and begin lifting them out. Keep a close eye on your transmission cooler lines when lifting the engine/trans out of the car. It's easy to forget they are there, and snag them on the top of the radiator support. Also keep watch the automatic Z bar linkage where it fits into the bracket on the bell housing (column shift automatic). It should just slide out when you lift the engine out, but be sure it dosen't get caught up and bend it.

    The last time I pulled the engine and transmission out of my Maverick, it took me 45 minutes from the time I drove it to where the hoist was at, to the time the drivetrain was sitting on the ground in front of the car. The engine was still warm to the touch. :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2007
  14. newtoford

    newtoford Member

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    i dont think its been mentioned but take the hood off too while your at it
     
  15. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Take lots of pictures before hand.
    Label connections.
    Use Freezer bags to hold bolts, nuts, etc and label the bags.
    Take notes.
     

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