when i got my maverick there was already a big dent in the front of the pan. it was never a problem but recently i havent ben able to seal the drain plug. i think its a combination of a crease from the dent leading right to the drain hole which is probably a small crack originating off the drian hole. so if the hole isnt slightly spraded apart from a crack there probably is some stripping involved too. ive tried rubber washers on the plug which used to work but that dent's crease dosnt allow a flat surfac for it to seal. anyway i read my old chiltons maverick guide on I6 oil pans. looks like you just un-bolt it and bolt the new one back up. i was wondering if the timing cover would have to be losened but it didnt mention anything. but when i read how to change the timing cover it instructs you to drop the pan. but since im leaving the cover it shouldnt be an issue. so while im up in there what else should i get into. figure it's a good time to hang a new oil pump. 32 years of pushing is a long time. I havent had any reason to belive thre to be an issue but should i do the rod bearings and bolts. so what would be a good place to get a pan? the chrome JC Whitney valve cover fit like crap and as much as i'd like a chrome pan it definatly wont be their cheap china crap. classicinlins.com has a nice one but $300+ seem a little too much. can i just walk into a napa and order one? finish is not important, i'll just paint it blue if its not chrome i cant find any oil pumps on classic inlines. after that napa fule pump cracked in half on me after a year im not sure i want to trust the oil pump. any other high quality "normal" use options out there? probably donr need a HV for a cruiser? it looks like they will have the hook up on ARP bolts if i decide to go that far. rod bolts=$60 main bolts=$110 seems a little excesive for something thats not getting a full rebuild but i know im gonna regret it when i break a rod off the crank. isnt that how it always is? they have clevite main bearings($85) and rods($45) but i could probably order it all through my uncle's napa employee discount for a little less. feel fre to voice any opinions on the matter, or should i just post this on fordsix?
"feel fre to voice any opinions on the matter" getting a used pan off the board would be your best bet... if the drain plug leak isn't making a big mess i would leave all of it alone... is there a rebuild/v8 swap in the future? you can do the bottom end in the car but if it is just a leak i wouldn't open that can of worms. JMO.... ......
You wont have to remove the timing cover, but be prepare to raise th eengine to get the pan off. The steering linkage is in the way. Not a bad job I had to do the same with mine, hope all goes well
I think it's actually easier to take the two bolts out of the idler arm and lower the steering linkage enough to pull the pan out. At least that's what I did to remove the pan on my 302.
well for the hand full of bolts it takes to get the engine loose i think id rather just prop it up then drop steering components. there are v8 "hopes" but not any real plans. body work is 1st on my list.
the drain plug has become a steady drip. ive got a coffee can under the plug to catch it all. i think at this point im just going to do the pan and pump. anybody have one used on the cheap? does the 250 pan interchange with the 200/170?
i thought that was a 200 you were parting out craig? what about a new oil pump? should i bother to put a newone up?
I've always been a fan of the "don't fix what ain't broke" saying in some situations, this being one of them. I'd just replace the pan and leave the rest alone. 200 and 250 oil pans are not interchangeable.
