Ok, i am screwing around with the car again. Here is what is happening. I can get it to whatever rpm I want, as long as I keep the throttle under 50%. No matter what rpm I am at, if I go past 50%, it will die on me. Unless I get past 75% then it will come back to life and take off. Same problem as before, but today I left it at 50% for a few seconds and it just died on the road like it lost spark. No popping, nothing. Also, if I just gun it, it starts to do the popping loss of power thing. So, I have to get past 50% to 75% then once it comes back to life, I can then gun it, but I cannot gun it from under 50% or it will sputter all over the place. Distributor cap and rotor look almost new. Would an audio clip help? This is getting embarrassing. I had a chick in a late model camaro next to me and a riced out Cobra Mustang behind me with a big cowl hood, and I have the fastest car of the three, but I cannot get it to move from the red light
here is #1 plug...gapped at .045 or so. It is a shorty plug and has a fine electrode and it makes the gap look like .100 or so in the pic, but it isn't.
Scott; sounds like the accellerator pump shot is too small, and not keeping up with the engine. Get a pump cam kit (if you run a holley) and try a cam with a quicker and longer shot. Or, get a 50cc pump. If that doesn't fix it, you may have a fuel pump that is injured or not adequate for the task at hand. Let me know if these help out.
I just got off the phone with Holley tech, Edelbrock was having an "unusually large volume of calls, and your call cannot be answered at this time" Well, we determined that this carb is a Proform, uses holley metering blocks and the end pieces that say HOLLEY on them. Tech guy had me poke around a bit and said to see if the acc pump squirts RIGHT WHEN THE SECONDARIES START TO OPEN. The secondaries opened about 1/3 of the way (50% to 75% hmmm) then squirted. He showed me which screw to adjust, and I took it out and it is MUCH BETTER. Not perfect, but if I keep messing with it... So, Earl, you are dead-nutz right on Looks like I might be able to nail it if not with the screw adjust, then maybe with the kit you are talking about. So, does this mean that my engine really did outgrow that 600cfm?
I had that same problem today on my 81 jeep cherokee. I found a bad accelerator pump seal and some trash down in the hole. less then $10 later it was back on the road scaring the rice out of four bangers.
You need to take the slack out of both accellerator pumps. If one was that far off, the other probably is too. What ignition are you running ?
I am running a stock replacement distributor from O'Reilly, with Pertronix module installed and an Accel Super Stock coil. Pretty low end electronics, I know... After reading about the gap on the pumps, I adjusted them both to .015 but I measured between the cam and the little arm that rests on it. Didn't know any better at the time. Hopefully that is close enough for now. Think I might buy the carb and do a rebuild kit on it. Even after running 5 gallons of fresh gas through it, it still has that "sweet" smell of old varnished gasoline coming out of it. Might by part (or all) of my problem.
If it sat for any length of time with old gas in it, you might have some passages plugged in the metering block causing your problems. Don't sweat the low tech ignition, you're running basically what I do in mine. I have zero problems with ignition. Stock points distributor, Pertronix II (or Crane XR-1) Mallory Promaster coil, Large Ford EFI post terminal cap, Ford Racing 9mm wires. This is plenty good to 7500 rpms. In the 77 Comet, I'm running a rebuilt Duraspark distributor with the stock spark box and a hotter coil.
