Comp recommended this cam for my setup, any pros/cons?

Use Comp Part#159 To Break In Cam If Not You Will Do It Again And Again Without It

 

I was thinking of starting to run Royal Purple. Should I just add a dose of this stuff from now on at each oil change?

 

For break in,,, don't run the synthetic, you should break engine in first. Don't know how brand new cars come with it in,,, EOS was recommended to me for every oil change.

Scott, are you going through all the bearings or just put new cam in?

 

Not sure at this point. Probably the easy way and then live to regret it. Then in a few months, one of you will pull this thread up and say "TOLD YOU SO!!!"

I will check out the cam bearings since I will be in there, but not main bearings. If I had to take the engine that far apart, I would just rebuild it now, 11:1 compression, etc, or maybe just drop it and do a 393.

I will cut my oil filter open and see what I find. Probably rinse or drop the oil pan, even though the oil came out looking fine.

I won't have the extra funds to do any serious spending for another 2-4 years (college loans, 2 car payments, credit card bills acquired before I started working full time, etc), and just need to keep this car alive and rust free until then. Then I can start to do things on it CORRECTLY...

 

I had the Chevy version of that cam in a 4 speed Corvette. It was much better than stock. Had just a little rumble at idle. It should work good with your existing components (springs and a stock converter). Personally, I wished I would have gotten the next bigger one....274 I think it is?

Cleaver

PS - I told you so on one of your other threads. Haha. If you still have your old oil, get a good strong magnet and run through it. If your old oil was dirty, you will not see the particles. They will be extremely fine, almost powdery. That is the stuff that gets embedded in the bearing babbit material.YOu might get luck with the cheap route....if not expect a spun rod bearing in a few months.

 

Now THAT sounds like fun...

Hoping for luck at this point. A spun bearing will give me the excuse to force myself to do the rebuild, with all that extra money I have...

 

So, is there anything I can do at this point? To minimize damage and extend the life of what I have left? I never heard the tapping until Friday, when I found the failed lifter, and only have about 15 miles on it after the tap started.

I assume the damage is done to the bearings already, but would any kind of flushing and/or oil additives extend the life of what I have left?

I really cannot do a rebuild at this time. I still need another 2 or so years before I will have extra money to spend...

Would the bearings possibly last for 2 years if there IS damage, considering that I drive maybe 200-500 miles per year?

 

Yeah, you can pull the pan and look at your bearings. That's the only way you'll know what you have to work with.

 

If it were mine, I would park it until I had the money to fix it the right way. There is no point in throwing away good money after bad.

 

At this point, if it ain't going to run with $350...it ain't going to run for 2-5 years...

I don't have the cash to throw at it, and if the $350 cam/spring swap don't work, I am out for the long run.

Period...that is where I sit. It will sit in the garage for the next 2-5 years without a motor, or it will run with the new cam/springs that I give it now...only options at this point...

 

Run it 'till it drops dead on you. Then buy a used roller 5.0 for $300 and put it in there, run that one until it dies, then buy another 5.0 roller for $300, and so on and so on.

 

My car has a 100,000 mile 5.0 roller in it.Still beating the wee out of it.

 

This is really the direction I am leaning...only it will likely be a roller 351W. If it craters too soon, I will stay with 5.0 so all my parts will swap over. If it lasts a couple years, 351 and a whole slew of new parts.

It MIGHT run another 50k on a new cam, maybe not...

It will be another learning experience and if it fails, the final excuse I needed to upgrade.

 

And guys...don't lose respect in me for doing it the cheap way. I really do not have ANY extra money after my bills to spend on this car. That is why it is so ugly and I do everything half-a$$ed. When I get one or both of my cars paid off or college loans, things will be really different. A single-colored car, the correct parts, doing it the right way...

OK, now that I got that out, I feel much better

 

i agree with rick don"t do like me keep changing mine so i can"t drive it .
i have owend mine probally 6years and still only pulled it on and off trailer .