If you're going to run a main girdle, that throws a monkey wrench into the equation. The stock pans won't clear a main girdle. And you really shoud run a girdle, unless you've got an aftermarket block. The contact point for the girdle is in the rear where the pan bottom, curves back up to the rear main radius. Moroso and Milodon both make extra capacity pans for this. There may be some stock style aftermarket pans with this feature too. What you're looking for is a pan with a "kicked out" section in the middle of the rear wall, about the same width as the rear main cap. The pan bottom is also slightly deeper here as well. The main girdle studs are what interfere with the stock pans. I bought a pan off ebay that's a Milodon look a like with this feature. Sorry I can't get pics of what I'm talking about posted here, but comparing the bottom side and rear inside of diffferent pans will show you what I'm talking about. This isn't a problem with the stock rear sump Fox body pans, those clear a girdle fine.
The only thing a girdle is good for is holding things together after you split the block, it might save the rotating assembly.
You implied that anyone not using an aftermarket block should run a girdle. Unless your attempting to protect some high dollar rotating assembly from falling onto the ground when the block splits a girdle is useless. It doesn't strengthen a block, beat it too hard and a stock block will split with or without a girdle. At very high rpms a girdle may limit main cap walk. That doesn't appear to be the application of the original poster.
That's your opinion. I believe it DOES strengthen the stock blocks. Show me the proof that we're wasting our money by using a girdle. And if it saves the rotating assembly if the block does split, all the better. That's a $200 insurance policy against a $1000 stroker kit. You don't like main girdles, fine, don't use em. But don't put down those that choose to use em. It's our money.
also gonna need to block the dipstick hole in the block and get one for the timing cover....i,m sure you probly know this ...jus my 2 cents
I will tell my brother what you have said but thats WAY over my head. My brother is Mr. Perfect Engine Builder. Im just the guy who can assemble one. Actually. I myself didnt know that. I bet my brother did. I havent talked to him about that yet. More or less im the guy who gets to throw money at it and hope I bought the right parts.
Not putting anyone down. Again, it didn't seem that the original poster's application was gonna spin high rpms and needed to prevent cap walk. You stated that anyone not using an aftermarket block should be running a girdle and that's just not so. As for the proof that girdles don't strengthen the block, there's plenty of proof around, research it. Many of the top name engine builders consider them a waste unless it's a high rpm racing situation. Almost every small block Ford that cracks/splits does it in the same manner. Starts at a main cap bolt hole, travels up through the main web and cam journal and into the lifter valley. Simply tying together the main caps does not stop this.
Again, that's YOUR opinion. Nothing wrong with advising the uninformed to run a girdle with a stock block. Better to be safe than sorry. Preventing cap walk is just another excuse to run one. And it was YOU who said that using one could save the rotating assembly in the event that the block failed. So it seems your only arguement against it is it doesn't prevent the block from splitting. It DOES strengthen the bottom end as far as the caps are concerned and keeps things tied together better. So it's YOUR opinion it's a waste to use one, My opinion is it's not.
Are you running a Main Girdle? I am needing an aftermarket pan that will clear the Main Girdle. Thanks,
I'm 90% certain the 30925 will clear, but to make sure, you might want to call Milodon and confirm it.
