Im haveing a problem with my comet and getting it into gear I try and put it into drive and it jumps forward and dies i just rebuilt the carb put a new steering control valve new fan belts and new ignition and spark plugs in what did i do
Well, this might not be much help, but I know that the GM's I worked on suffered from torque converters getting stuck in lock up. Did the C4's in the Mav/Comets have lockup? Im not a tranny guy... Its hard getting a stuck converter car moving, just dont stop. Also, does it also happen if you drop into reverse? This shouldnt be related to the changes you made, but no one ever said that problems are always related to previous work. This might not even be close to your problem, its just a thought. Good luck with it.
We had a similar problem when we first got our car, you won't believe what the problem was. It was the wires on the starter relay, the "S" and the "I" wire. I guess when the car would go into drive it would shake the wires enought to make the car stall. To fix it I cut the pig tails off and put the type of connector that I could use a small nut to connect them to the starter relay. This may not be the problem but it's easy to check.
Yes it does happen when i try to go into reverse, i dont think its a problem with the ignition because when i put it into drive it instantly jumps forward ... also i just converted to disk brakes if i didnt metion that
Somethings going on at the carb. Raise the idle speed up up to a 1000 or so and try it with your foot on the brake to see what happens. The C4 does not have lock up feature but the stock converter is pretty tight.
I tuned the timing by taking out spark plug number 1 and sticking a finger in the hole and cranking the engine over.. other then that i didnt do any special timing
you really need to put it on a light to tune it right.....sounds to me like its retarded too far and causing it to stall
did you you go to power disc brakes? maybe your losing vacuam thru your booster,does it backfire thru the carb when it dies? I had a spark advance freeze up so the idle was fine but when I gave it gas timing was way slow, will it rev up in nuetral? what if you raised both back tires off the ground(be careful,use jack stands) would it die when you put it in gear then? Does it start ri ght up or motor spin for a while before it fires? (slow timing) new ignition ( just new points or complete ign. system?) your dwell may be way off. what happens when it's running in nuetral and you turn your wheels left and right, does the motor pull way down? don't worry this will all make a great story when your figger it out!
I did a frount disk swap, new rear drums, new calipers, new brake lines, new steering control valve, new fan belts, new coil, new distributer, new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, new starter and solinoid, new starter wiring, new battery wiring, compleat overhaul on carb, changed fluids, also did the body work, car ides and revs good, starts real easy... better then my EFI cars Im thinking its more of a timing problem when i did the timing i only used my finger in the first spark plug hole and got my friend to crank the engine over and when my finger blew out i used that as one on the cap. Other then that i did no other ajustments on the timing. PS how i do the timing i can get a timing light i just dont know how to do it ive never dont it before also for qicvick i have half flat frount tire on the right side
I had a friend who had a 65 mustang 2+2, he bought a set of magnum 500 wheels and went to firestone and had them mounted and installed, when he went to leave the car woundn't go,firestone told him the calipers had locked up so they installed new ones,he went to leave and the car still wouldn't go,turns out some magnam 500 wheels (wrong offset?) will hit the calipers and won't roll.
first you need to find your timing marks on your crank pully....find the one that you need to set it at (we will say around 8 degrees before top dead center for this) you will need to know your timing setting. take a white paint pen and mark that mark so you can see it when the light hits it. clamp the pickup line to the number one spark plug wire. unhook your vaccum advance on your distributer and plug it shut so it doesnt leak vaccum. then lossen the distributer so it will turn but stays snug enough the engine vibration wont turn it when idling. start the car and trigger the light towards your timing pointer(should be mounted on or near your water pump. you will then see the paint mark on your pully when the light flashes. line the paint mark up with the pointer and tighten the distributer one you do.. double check your timing after you have it tightened up, if good you are good to go. remember it is critical that you plug off your vaccum advance or you will time it improperly. that is if you have vaccum advance....im not even sure what engine you have. good luck
knew a guy that put mags on a custom van and the calipers hit. he pulled the rims, took a grinder and ajusted the spot it hit and went down the road. maybe i would do that and maybe not...frank...:bananaman :bananaman
I tried something today i had a friend push the car while it was running and in neutral and i put it into drive and the car went but it still did the jump forward and stall if i tried to put it into drive from a stop
