Okay, my Maverick is moving, however it does not shift through the gears. It seems it is starting off in 2nd gear instead of 1st. Looks like I need to play with the T.V. cable a little. However, could it be that something is majorly wrong? Just in case, here's what the linkage at the carburetor looks like with the choke open: View attachment 26691 Any hints, help, or suggestions appreciated, as I DO NOT want to burn up my tranny. Thanks,
The linkage is inthe right place. SO I take it the car is not shidting at all? Mine was doing that too at first. I had my AOD rebuilt before I did my swap. At first it would not change gears, manually or automatic. could not figure it out. I was getting pressure when hooking up a gauge. I would let it idel and go through the gears and still it would not shift out of first, might have been second gear, can't really remember. I finally said F'it and decided if it was going to break then let'd do it in style. I started revving it out in the one gear it was going in and eventually it let loose and started shifting. Maybe there was air in the lines or valves or something.
could be...air... mine was put on jackstands and ran through the gears (3) times. this way there is no...load...on the transmission. then had to add more fluid. ...Frank...( ILMA/C)
If the transmission has not been rebuilt recently: Fill it with the engine idling in park. when it is 1/2 way between the FULL and ADD marks run it through the gears a few times. Then top it off while the engine is idling in Park. If it is full, when checked while idling in park, then you should adjust the TV cable so you get between 3 and 5 PSI at an idle from the middle pressure port - it is marked "TV". If it is too high the transmission will not shift but will kick down early. If the pressure is too low it will shift very early and never kick down. The governor (held to the output shaft by lockring) can cause the same symptoms if it gets loose on the shaft. To fix this you have to remove the extension housing (fluid will drain) remove the governor (one lock ring) remove the locating ball from the output shaft, place a piece of rubber o-ring under the ball and reassemble. (be sure to get the governor facing the right direction or it won't work) It would help to mark the rear facing side of the governor so you get it back on correctly. After it is all together and refilled with oil (filled in Park with the engine idling) then you can take it for a test run. After your test drive check the oil level again - in park with the engine idling. Top it off by adding oil untill the level is 1/2 way between the FULL and ADD marks.
Ok, I don't have one of those pressure guages, and I'm not sure what you mean by "middle pressure port"? Also, the extension housing is on the back of the tranny, right? Where the yoke fits in?
Also, this may be a dumb question, but does it matter if the tranny cooling lines going to the radiator are crossed?
One the passenger side of the tranny (right side) there are four plugs with a 7/16" hex on them. Three of them are in a line. The middle one is the TV pressure test port. You will need a 90 degree 1/8" pipe "street elbow", a 0-30 psi and a 0-100 psi gauge with a hose long enough to fit through the window while you are in the car. You should probably invest in a book, "Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul" by Haynes Techbook. It has all the adjusting information and repair - overhaul information a novice can use. Yes, the extension housing is the rear casting that bolts to the main transmission case. The driveline yoke goes into the back end of it. The governor is on the shaft that the yoke slips on. You can take it to a shop to have the TV cable adjusted but they will try to sell you a rebuild and they can (I didn't say they would) set the TV cable so your transmission lasts about a week. You are better off making the adjustments yourself. No such thing as dumb questions - except for the ones that are never asked. If you only have the cooler in the radiator it doesn't really matter but if you are adding an auxillary cooler (and you should) then yes it does matter, The top line is from the transmission to the radiator cooler, then you install a short line from the radiator to the Aux. cooler and then you go from the Aux. cooler to the bottom fitting which is the return line from the cooler to the transmission.
ok, now I'm starting to understand. The directions I recieved for this cable are not very specific about the locations of those plugs. Thanks! Also, why two (2) pressure gauges? Also found this site somewhat helpful, after spending some time searching! http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/431000_inst.htm Many Thanks!
Can you tell the difference between 2 and 5 psi on a gauge that is marked to read 100 psi? I can't and if i could it wouldn't be very accurate. The 300 psi gauge is for reading the low pressure. The 100 psi gauge is for reading the wide open throttle pressure when driving down the road - it should be about 80 - I didn't look that up and I don't trust my memory - you shouldn't either. TCI is a good place to get information. Did you buy the tranny from them?