Finally, enough money to do the disk brake conversion! Now I need parts and some help

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Jerilyn, Jan 29, 2003.

  1. Jerilyn

    Jerilyn Member

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    Hello everyone!

    Well as stated above I finally have enough money to do the disk brake conversion. I have a 73 mav, 2 door, automatic, I only am doing the front so I need to know EXACTLY what parts I need (both used and newer if possible) to do this. I know that I need a brake booster, and stuff but I need to know all of the intricisies (sp) of the job. Also if anyone happens to be selling any of this please let me know via my email. I thank you in advance.

    Jeri:D
     
  2. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    Disc Brakes

    Hey Jerilyn, if you go to the opening page here and click on links then on Ford Maverick link, you will find a very good article on this swap . Detailed and very precise, had several of these parts but have sold all of them. Sorry
     
  3. fordman

    fordman Member

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    i have a 72 maverick i used a 78 (5 on 41/2)granada disk brake set up their easy to find it fit the maverick its a bolt on the granada brake line worked fine E-Z swap it is all the brake you need on a maverick the proportioning valve thats on the car was for drums but it worked fine on the street car has a 9"rear i put a line lock on the car had to go to a desk brake prop. valve to make it work this set up will add 40 LB to the car if you need any help e-mail
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2003
  4. expjames91

    expjames91 Member

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    hey jerilyn. are you the driver of the blue 2 door, kinda spotty paint w/surface rust on the hood?
     
  5. mark_b

    mark_b Member

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    keep in mind that you do not have to put a booster on it. I did the conversion and kept the manual set up. works great stops on a dime!



    granada parts: (Manual) master cylinder, proportioning valve, disc break spindles, rotors, bearing kit, replace the flexible hoses! (I used the junk yard rotors and bearings) NEW callipers and pads.


    You will need to save all the fittings from the donor car. You will need a good flairing tool also.

    Mark
     
  6. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    Disc brakes

    Just a bit of info on this, if you plan on racing, the manual discs are the way to go. I have found out on my power assisted discs that are on my Fairmont, the reaction time is slowed because when releasing the brake pedal, the vacuum in the booster must bleed off before the brakes are released. This may be only a fraction of a second but it will affect the cars reaction time at launch. Also the disc calipers will have a certain amount of drag on the rotors compared to loosely adjusted drum brakes. Mavman's 75 Maverick drag car has had drum brakes on front forever and runs 115 to 118mph in 1000ft. They do a good job of stopping it, however if you have a street/strip car maybe power brakes would work out better. Just a thought on the subject.
     
  7. fordman

    fordman Member

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    if you can do it like this they will work
     
  8. fordman

    fordman Member

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    hey old guy just playing your right on the brakes my old mave has the granada set up they work good i,m a old guy to but i love drag raceing your drag car do you run no-e
     
  9. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    All you need to find are the spindles from a donor car (Maverick/Comet/Granada/Monarch/Versailles). Everything else is available new from the local parts store. You really don't need the power vacuum assist. If you DO go with it, you must get the driver-side spring tower brace from a power disc brake Maverick/Comet, as the pwr booster won't fit with your original brace (it's ugly and doesn't match the passenger side brace). You ALSO need the brake pedal and entire bracket assembly that bolts to the steering column and firewall, master cylinder & booster, ALL related brake lines and prop valve. It's a REAL pain in the a$$ but can be done.

    --OR--

    You can do it the EASY way (recomended) and forget about power assist, in which case all you need are the manual disc master cylinder, the aforementioned spindles, rotors, calipers, bearings, seals & flex-hoses, the right length pedal rod (or the pedal will be WAY too high), and the correct brake line fittings for the master cylinder (they are a different size from the drum brake M/C)--you will simply have to re-flare the ends of the two short lines that go to the master cylinder. You also need the brake lines that go to the front flex hoses from the distribution block. Most of the holes are already in the frame and the bolts are self-tapping. You do NOT need a proportioning valve with the manual disc setup (front disc/rear drum) as the stock distribution block works fine. I don't care what ANYONE says to the contrary. IF for some reason you experience excessive rear wheel lockup (which you shouldn't), I recommend an adjustable aftermarket proportioning valve. I did this swap over 12 years ago and it was well worth it. They work great. I made all the mistakes and learned the hard way how this stuff fits together (interchangability) so there is no reason that you should have to go through all of that.

    Here's the PARTS LIST for non-power assisted disc brakes for Maverick/Comet:

    -Spindles
    -New Rotors (or good used ones machined)
    -New Calipers for '75-'77 Maverick/Comet
    -New brake pads
    -New Wheel bearings
    -New Seals
    -New disc master cylinder '74-'77 Maverick. (use the shortest rod supplied or get one from a drum M/C)
    -Front brake lines for '74 Disc brake Maverick/Comet (used are fine) ('74 lines are already bent properly and have correct size fittings)
    -Short brake lines from Dist. block to master cyl. (re-flare one end with correct fittings)
    -New front flex-hoses
    -Wheel bearing grease
    -Front end alignment

    **I have been told that '74 calipers are different from '75-'77 and are not as good, so don't use '74 calipers.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2003
  10. Mavaholic

    Mavaholic Growing older but not up!

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    If your brakes that are on there now are in great shape, You can go cheaper by keeping you existing set up and just changing the spindels with new rotors, calipers, and pads. I'd also put new
    hoses, bearings and grease seal. After you get it all bolted on go somewhere where you can get some speed on the car and do some panic stops to see if you rear locks up berfore the front. It should not. I have been running this set up for many years with no problems.
     
  11. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    Fordman

    Yes, I do run PRO/NOE class. At 63 I sometimes wonder if I should be in nice retirement community but racing is what I have done since high school. Started with bicycle's, then go karts and drag racing. At 21 started racing stock cars then drove midgets for awhile. The Army and Nam interrupted that but got back into it after returning, the switch to late model cars and better equiptment made it a little harder to compete with backyard built cars I was used too. Family, new house and such made the financial end tough too. Still drove for a few people and attended the races often as a spectator(UGH). When Mavman was 8 I got him into a go kart and spent several years as his crew chief,if you know what I mean. Always wanted to return to driving but the circle track stuff was so exspensive just could not do it. After moving to Arkansas found few kart tracks close so sold off everything. Went to a dragstrip close by one day with both sons, just to look and see, been at this track for over 12 yrs now.

    Helped Mavman on his Mav, he won several points championships, top ten etc. When youngest son was 15 built this Fairmont from left over Mav stuff for him to drive(always used Ford's even in stock cars), still build our own engines and chassisis. He finished in top ten first year but got into the deer season thing and so I started driving it a couple of years ago, what a blast. Now if he wants to drive he is going to have to get his own car, it's too much fun to stop now. Mavman's car looks just like yours except for the accent paint. What rear suspension are you using? We still are on leaf springs and cal-tracs and can't seem to get the obvious traction that your car is getting in the pic's. The 393 in his Mav just literally blew the tires off with the powerglide, my Fairmont with 306 is not much better but we are working on it. Sorry for the biography lesson but when it comes to racing, I love to share and listen to others stories, father time is becoming a real SOB if you know what I mean. Did finish 7th in the points this year out of 100 some cars in our class, so the young guys better look out for us old folks, for awhile anyway.:D :D :D
     
  12. fordman

    fordman Member

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    dave were do you race i race at red river la and hallsville and fun ford never went to arkansas what do they have up their
     
  13. chandler

    chandler Member

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    disc brake

    Jerilyn if you are still looking for the conversion I have a complete set-up still on the car, everything is in good shape, you would receive rotors, spindles, calipers for $135.00 plus shipping if you need other parts I have plenty to help you out. just e-mail me @ maverick@warrnetonmo.com with your zip and I can get you a price on shipping
     
  14. black396

    black396 Member

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    If Jerilyn is not interested in youur setup, , I probably am. As we speak, I am calling the local boneyards...

    Charles
    Fl
     

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