You would have to send your block into a shop that does that and they will bore it out and put these ( i dont know how to explain it "grooves" i guess) in, and then you would need a stroker crank, rods, pistons, and rings so on. I did it its not that hard if you have some one else do your block
New crank, rods, and pistons. That's about it. It's pretty much the same for all engines whether you are stroking a 2.3L to a 2.5 (4 cyl) or a 460 to 557. Also, the clevelands are gaining popularity with the stroker crowd. You "can" use stock heads and intake if you want, but to take advantage of the extra cubic inches, it'd be better off with aftermarket stuff.
Some... ...stroker kits require notching the block to clear the counterweights in the crankshaft. This is probably not required with all stroker kits. Seth
Can someone please define the term "Stroking" for me? All I really know is that it has something to do with creating more displacement am I correct in that?
Simply put you lengthen the distance from bottom dead center to top dead center, by instaslling a different crank and matching rods and pistons. If you took a stock 302 and filled each cyl with water through the plug hole, it should take 37.5 cubic inches to fill each one to the top. The longer distance to bottom dead center would allow more water to be poured in which would mean more cubic inches of said water in each cyl. This is not a true and exact method of measuring cyl volume but it may help you understand a bit easier. Boring the cylinders oversize also increases cubic inch somewhat by allowing more volume in each cyl. There are instances when "de stroking" an engine is done to eliminate cubic inches. An example was when I drove midgets back in the 60's, the IMCA rules allowed only 215 cubic inch motors. That is what the Offy four cyl had etc. One of my friends took a relatively new ford 221 cubic inch and "de-stroked" it to 215, it was a rocket but other handling and chassis problems kept all that power from getting to the track effeciently. The crankshaft was ground opposite of the "stroker" cranks we discussed earlier, to shorten the distance from top to bottom dead center making less ci's. It is kind of complicated to explain it in correct technical terms but I don't relate to that stuff well, anyway. Maybe someone else can help you out more correctly than me.
Dave... ...I thought that you explained it perfectly. With regards to destroking. Was the Chevrolet 302 in the Z28 of '67-'69 a stroked 283 or a destroked 327? I thought it was destroked. It seems like that is why they revved so high. I have heard it both ways, but can't remember which is correct. Seth
Shorter stoke... ...would make higher revs. I thought that it was a 283 crank in a 327 block with 4 bolt main bearings. I believe it had rods similar in length to the 350 rods, but I am only guessing on my memory. There was a 283 'Power Pak' that had a steel crank. I think that this is the crank that was used. Seth
Shorter stoke... I found this: http://www.prestage.com/Tech+Info/Engine+Specs/Chevrolet/General+Engine+Information/302.aspx It says that the bore was 4.0 from the 327 and 350 while the stroke was 3.0 from the 283. It's amazing how many different motors shared the 5.7 inch connecting rod over in that stable. My Dad played with dirt track cars in the late 60's and early 70's and they used to whip 350's with their 327. The 327 was a well balanced combo that turned up pretty well for that type of application. Seth
Thanks Old Guy. You explained that in a way that made great sense. Can you bore and stroke a motor or is that a bad idea? Not like I am planing on doing any of this at present Just trying to learn. Dave
While on the subject of brand-x strokers.....a friend an I ventured into unknown territory with a 400 block, 6" rods, custom pistons, and a 3.25 stroke (same as 327) crank. Makes 353 inches, stays under the 360 inch rule, but should make great top-end power. But, his family is ailing and they haven't been able to put it to the dyno yet. I haven't head anyone using that combo before, but that doesn't mean it ain't been done. Also somethign I was thinking of just now, I think you can use a 351M/400 Ford rod in a 3.5" stroke windsor (rod small end bushed down to .912") with a 331 stroker piston for a LONG rod 351w. Dont know if it'd do any good or not, but it'd work. sorry for rambling on again
Red Toy, were kinda saying the same thing. When I say bigger bore for more revs, that means they used the shorter stroke crank to come in at 302cid.
I read an interesting article a few weeks ago. A guy stroked his 302 to a 355 by using a modified 351C crank, 2 sets of Pinto 2.3L rods and 350 Chevy pistons. Says the Pinto rods are actually beefier than 302 rods. The pistons stick out of the cylinders about .005", but with a .040" gasket it's no big deal.
When first doing a stroker stay within your buget. One of the easiest is the 351W to 393 all you need is the 393 stroker crank your stock rods and a nice set of 302 30 over pistons. Once you have your rotating assemble balanced and your 351W bored to 30 over you will need to check crank counter weight clearence to cyclinder wall. Now if you don't know what I'm speaking about all you have to do is have your motor on a engine stand upside down with your crank in the block facing up. Now rotate your crank and make sure that the counter weights come no closer then .100 to any part of the block. Most 393 cranks don't have as much a problem with this as the 408 or 427 cranks but if you don't check the clearence you will more then likely be sorry. If you have to remove some of the cyclinder wall just use a die grinder and remove only what you have to. If you are going to use NOS then keep your compression ratio low if you aren't then a nice flat top should still let you use 93 oct. Good luck with whatever you do. And as always just my .02 Terry GAtes Bossmav
