Oil pressure outlet, ignition questions, etc.

Discussion in 'Technical' started by MP1966, Jul 1, 2008.

  1. MP1966

    MP1966 Member

    Joined:
    May 19, 2008
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    OKC
    Vehicle:
    72 comet
    Hey guys,

    The new 351W is coming along nicely...It has 8.5:1 compression with D00E heads. Crane 204/216@.050 cam .456/.484 lift. Edelbrock Performer intake. Holley 600cfm carb. and Hooker 6901 competition headers. Sorry no pics yet but, it looks nice.

    We had issues with the distributor oil pump drive since the old Proform HEI universal distributor was setup for a 302. So, we found a stock re-manned Motorcraft distributor @ local autoparts store. Then, we found a complete module, coil and wiring from a 1980 Ford F100 pickup with a 4.9L 6 cylinder.

    Anywho, on to my questions: Where is the proper place to hook up an oil pressure guage on the 351 block? Is it at the front of the engine near the fuel pump?

    Also, the ignition setup we took from the old F100 truck had a 2 wire plug (one red and one white wire) coming from the firewall and connected to the ignition module. What is the proper wire hookup for this 2 wire plug under the dash?

    Thanks,
    Mark
     
  2. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2005
    Messages:
    12,098
    Likes Received:
    29
    Trophy Points:
    383
    Location:
    Lawrenceville, GA
    Vehicle:
    13 Mavericks
    The red wire coming out of the two wire plug needs to go to a 12 volt power source that is hot when the key is in the on position. The white wire is not needed, it is just to retard the timing when cranking the engine to help it start easier. I never used it and never had a problem.
     
  3. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2007
    Messages:
    5,861
    Likes Received:
    141
    Trophy Points:
    171
    Location:
    Opelousas La.
    The oil pressure port is just above & behind the fuel pump. Good choice of cam for the compression ratio.(y) I'd have gone with a better intake though. The Performer is simply an aluminum version of the 80's cast iron 4 bbl truck intake.
     
  4. MP1966

    MP1966 Member

    Joined:
    May 19, 2008
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    OKC
    Vehicle:
    72 comet
    Thanks for the info. guys!

    I wanted to get the Weiand Stealth intake manifold but, we were concerned about hood clearance issues. So we played it safe and stuck with the Ebrock Performer manifold.
     
  5. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2002
    Messages:
    6,060
    Likes Received:
    21
    Trophy Points:
    138
    Location:
    Pensacola
    Vehicle:
    1972 Sprint and 1975 Maverick
    Have you got those headers to fit, or are they still on the shelf?

    I ask because many folks have tried to use those headers on a 351w.
    The only ones that got them to work had to hack them to pieces and crimp/flatten pipes severely.

    Crites makes a bolt in set with 1.75" tubes, and Tubular makes a set with 1.5" tubes.
    The Tubular set requires using Stang/Falcon engine mounts.
     
  6. maverick75

    maverick75 Gotta Love Mavs!

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2005
    Messages:
    9,014
    Likes Received:
    14
    Trophy Points:
    172
    Location:
    Riverside, California
    Vehicle:
    The mav is gone but i'm still here!
    i used that same cam,intake and carb on my engine worked great(y)
     
  7. MP1966

    MP1966 Member

    Joined:
    May 19, 2008
    Messages:
    16
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    OKC
    Vehicle:
    72 comet
    Ratio411,

    We just unboxed the Hooker headers and bolted them to the engine with a few bolts while the engine is still on the stand.

    We took some quick measurements and it looks like the headers won't clear the shock towers without cutting. :hmmm: We both aren't real pumped on the idea of hacking on the shock towers.

    My dad was telling me that Summit makes a shorty header but, it requires going to a mini-starter. Anyone out there have shorty headers on their 351W swap?
     
  8. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2002
    Messages:
    6,060
    Likes Received:
    21
    Trophy Points:
    138
    Location:
    Pensacola
    Vehicle:
    1972 Sprint and 1975 Maverick
    Couple of pointers that might help you:

    1* Those headers don't fit the car. They bolt to the engine just fine. You have to pretty much wreck them and rebuild them custom to get them to work. Everyone I have seen posting here that used the 302 headers either beat the tubes half shut, or had an exhaust shop pinch bend new tubes to replace big sections of the original tubes to get them in. Neither is good.

    2* Cutting the towers does NOT help header fitment. It only helps you to get to the headers and spark plugs easier than with uncut towers. You cannot cut the towers low enough to gain header clearance. The upper A-arms are level with, or higher, than the headers, and you can only cut to just above the arms. It's a big misnomer that cutting the towers helps header fitment. It just saves your sanity when you are trying to get to the plugs, plug wires, or header bolts.

    3* The only other headers I have knowledge of folks using:
    Tubular 1.5" tubes, direct fit with early Stang/Falcon engine mounts.
    Crites 1.75" tubes, direct fit either 302 or 351w.
    Hooker 1.75" tube Stang swap headers. Listed for 351w in 65 Stang. Mods required to engine bay for fitting. Not quite a direct bolt in.

    4* There is a set of shorties for a 351w in a 65 Stang. They have 1.625" tubes IIRC.
    They cost same as the others... 400 dollar range. I can't remember the brand... JBA??? Maybe:huh: I have not heard of anyone trying these in a Mav. I thought they might be an option. I looked REAL hard at a set in a Stang at a car show once. They looked like they would probably fit, but that doesn't mean anything. Are you ready to pony up 4 Franklins to be the guinea pig?

    5* If you are looking at Summit brand shorties... Don't even plan on them fitting. A 351 in a Maverick is way beyond Summit parts.

    6* Having put 351s in Mavericks before, I know they will fit without shaving the towers... However, I will never do another without shaving the towers! Take it from experience, shave the towers. I had to take my 351c 3/4 the way out of the car to get to the plugs! Shaved towers would have prevented that... (so would NOT using Moroso tall valve covers, but that's life :D )
     
  9. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2002
    Messages:
    6,060
    Likes Received:
    21
    Trophy Points:
    138
    Location:
    Pensacola
    Vehicle:
    1972 Sprint and 1975 Maverick
    Yeah... they are JBA 1653s
    They have gone up since I was looking at them.
    The cheapest I found with a quick search was $550 for uncoated stainless steel.
    Ceramic coating bumps them up 2 bills!

    I believe if they fit, it will be auto/floor shift only.
    I am concerned about the header that sweeps back. The early Stangs have the same clearances width wise, but the firewall has more clearance to the engine than our cars. I think it will fit without hitting the firewall, but it sure looks close.
    [​IMG]
     

Share This Page