I finished my disc brake swap and yesterday I had the frontend aligned. Today I decided to drive down to see Frank who lives about 50 miles from my house. Being this would be the first trip on the interstate I was listening to for every strange sound and noise. Other than the All Terrain mud tires singing on the asphalt and screaming on the cement was the only thing I heard. While getting off the exit I smelled something hot. My first thought was maybe the rear axle bearings were on their last leg before making a noise. I pulled into Frank’s drive and crawled under the car to feel the axle tube ends to see if they were warm. The tubes were cool to the touch and I didn’t smell anything hot. Frank gave me some bolts and U-nut to mount my fan shroud. (Frank, do you want a trader rating for the bolts?) We decided to ride down to Harold’s and put the Mav on the lift. Frank noticed the front wheels were very hard to spin. We cracked the bleeder on the caliper to relieve the pressure and the wheel then would spin like it should. After thinking about the dragging brakes we came to the conclusion the drum/drum master cylinder has a 10lb residual valve whereas the disc/drum master uses a 2lb valve. After eating lunch we came back to Frank’s house and he pulled his master cylinder from Patches and gave it to me to put on my Maverick. Thanks Frank…You will get a Trader Rating for that. The 100 mile road test was a complete success. I now have confident to drive beyond walking distant from the house.
good to hear... i wish i were that far with mine... over the past few days ive been stuck to 2 mile road tests... but thats more than its been driven for a while so im fine with it... makin alot of progress though
Man that car is coming a long way. That's strange about the master cylinder. I've been running a drum/drum '73 master cylinder on my '72 for a couple of years now with disc brakes, no problem.
The master cylinder on my car has a problem keeping pressure. I have to pump the brakes up sometimes to get them to feel good, but they always stop well. Never had a problem with the brakes, just the master cyl. itself. Just need two sets of hands.
I ran through my first set of pads in 5000 miles after going to front discs. Change the prop valve to an adjustable one and a 2 lb check valve and it has been fine since. I suspect the brake calipers were not well-lubed to begin with, too, so it might have been a contributing factor too.
...Glad you came down... "a large time was had by all." that is the norm when we get together. i need to get some parts...on...my car and stop taking parts off. ...i do remember Harold telling you..."there's a green mav. up the road with the M/C you need on it. the Old Man that ownes it has it on a lift and ain't doing anything with it"... i'm starting today...putting my painted parts that i picked up from my painter last night... i will share the joke on you at the..."parking lot BS session"...at the Stampede...remind me if i forget... i ordered my new M/C yesterday... anyone know what came with a...Man. Disc/Disc M/C... if this one fits...i will tell you what it is.the ports are the same size and the mounting holes are the same...price...$15.90... ...
Sweet!! But poor "Patches" it's become a parts car Frank, you should try that Wilwood MC I used on my car.
The Disc/Drum MC did the trick. The front wheels will now roll will little effort. I'm sure my gas mileage will increase...and brake pads will too Jamie- It's possible my old master was contaminated with crud and not releasing properly. It did look like an original factory part...the push rod was very rusty and fell off inside the car when I pulled the MC from the firewall.
That's scary!! Yea, I didn't change anything when I went to discs. I bought the drum/drum master cylinder new from Auto Zone, and still running the drum/drum proportioning valve. I've got about 38k miles on it all now, my pads are still fine and my rotors still look practically new. My pads were the best ones Advance Auto sells, the rotors are drilled and slotted, got them off ebay.
