Best way to clean 32 years worth of grime?

Whats the best way to completely clean all the grime from the inside of the valve cover, including the top-side of the welded plates? Id like to have it as clean as possible. I could also use tips on grime buildup on the engine and trans.

Thanks for any tips

I have a can of 2+2 Gum Cutter, and it seems to work, but it doesnt cut through all of it and I have no way of getting on top of the welded plates...Im looking for something that could break it down.

Also, is there any reason I need to keep these numbers? I figured Id take a pic of it before I grinded it off so I would have it...but if I dont need it then Ill delete it...lol

 

Carb cleaner + steel wool + a stiff tooth brush.

Same for the engine and trans. For the tight spots, thinly wrap a flat tip screw driver with a shop towel.

 

Thanks for the tip, didnt think of that, I guess Ill be makin a trip today :Handshake

Will the carb cleaner dissolve the gunk on top of the plates too? Im assuming it'll have to dissolve then be rinsed out

 

It should. If not, go in from the top side with a small flat head and scrape the gunk out, then use the carb cleaner to rinse it out.

EDIT -

Also, there may be products better than carb cleaner, but for the effectivness and price, you really can't beat the stuff. I use it to clean just about everything but the dishes - And even that may change soon. Ha!

 

Thanks a lot

Got my Mav off the road for 3 weeks, tearing apart everything under the hood, cleaning up/repainting/relocating electrical components...Im trying to simplify the look of the engine compartment, going good so far

Got alot of work ahead of me...

 

I like to use brake cleaner for stuff like that. If it's really persistent, I've heard of oven cleaner being used, but I haven't tried that.

 

I dont know but will electrolytic rust removal method could remove that? It remove rust, paint and leave only the bare metal... I tried it to remove rust and it work perfectly. But i dont know if it could remove grime like that.

Here is a link:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/


Jeff (rthomas771) did a very good how-to on his site:
http://www.1bad6t.com/rust_removal.html

 

I looked at oven cleaner today (Parts store was closed by the time I got out there), and it had a lot of stuff NOT to use it on...lol, is the metal used for the valve cover plain steel? The oven cleaner said not to use it on aluminum, copper, brass, and a bunch of other stuff...Im pretty sure oven cleaner can be used without a problem, but you know, better safe then sorry and all that jazz.

Thanks for the links Pasc, Ill probably ending up using that at some point just to see how good it works, might try it with the valve cover if I can find me a bucket...lol.

 

yes, the valve cover should be just plain carbon steel

 

goto the lpcal store and buy several cans of oven cleaner(3-4). put liberal coating on all crumby slime. Let sit for about 1/2 hr and then rince off with water. If needed repeat this till valve cover is clean. scratch cover with wire brush and let sit again. rince off again. I have done this with all engine and engine compartment and it worked fine. Good luck.

 

Trust me, it work! It take time, but it do work. I read on some site that some people de-seized engine with that method. It only need a bigger bucket

 

Oven cleaner works better than anything else. It works like the engine cleaner spray cans used to in the 80's before EPA regulations.

 

I have used ZEP purple degreaser. First thing to do is get Hot, very hot water, add the degreaser and soak the part in the solution for a little while.
this will get in the unreachable areas and then agitate with a green pad, rinse in a water-white vinager solution,(this will neutralize the alkalinity on the degreaser)The ratio on water vinager shoul be 10/1. and blow the unaccesible areas with compressed air and dry it up.
It might sound weird but my old man taught me this and it works great.
Keep in mind this few 2 things:
This chemical is so strong it will remove paint.
Follow the safety instructions on the label.

 

YES IT WORKS!! Thanks, Pasc, this will save me a LOT of work. I assembled the electrolytic bath and treated a rusty bumper bracket for several hours. What was rust is now a combination of mud, muddy water, and rusty foam. A little wire brushing and wiping off and the bracket is ready for OSPHO and POR15. The pic shows what the tub looks like after it cooks for a while. Now, THAT's a REAL rust bucket.

 

Glad i could help!

Show us a pic when you will clean the bumper bracket so that everybody could see how it work