I see the upper ball joint is readily available and reasonably priced, but I can't seem to find the lower ball joint without having to buy the whole control arm. There's nothing wrong with my control arms. Can the lower ball joint be replaced without having to do the whole arm? And assuming it can, is there any reason it shouldn't?
The lower is only available with the control arm. The inner bushing is probably in need of replacement anyhow.
That's just what's bugging me... I know for a fact the bushings don't need replacement and the LCAs are only a couple of years old. The whole front end was done about 14,000 miles ago by the previous owner, everything looks good except now I've got a ball joint worn out on the driver's side. I wonder if it's the same kit that Jamie used... Not sure if it's upper or lower. I suspect upper. But since I'm already having to do this, I figure I might as well do uppers on both sides. And if I'm doing uppers, I might as well do lowers... And I JUST got this thing aligned, so I'd prefer not to screw with that cam on the lower control arms.
Yeah, I haven't either although I'm positive I've read an old post where somebody did that. Maybe they are no longer sold, I don't know. Guess I'll just do the uppers for now. Hopefully when I have it all apart I'll discover I don't need the lowers. But knowing my luck, I doubt it.
You do know that there is a special procedure to correctly check the suspension on our cars? Edit: I just looked in my Chilton's Repair and tune-up guide. It is kinda vague to me on the subject of inspection and serviceing the bj's. I thought I read, in a big Chilton's BOOK, that you place a block of wood under the upper control arm THEN lift the wheels off the ground by jacking up at the frame (body). This guide is showing the block of wood, but not untill servicing, AND, it mentions putting jack stands "UNDER the CROSSMEMBER inboard of the lower control arms". But THEN, it does not say what to do once they are there, where I certainly wouldn't be putting any jack or stand. The BOOK, if I recall, was better in giving/explaining the procedure(s).
Sure! Jack it up, take the wheels off and shake the hell out of the ball joints, replace the ones that are worn. Check the bushings for play and wear, inspect all the other rubber/poly items, put it down, drive hard. If it still makes noise, cuss and take the springs off, get really pissed if it's not the spring perches.
When they checked the ball joints on my car, they just put it up on the lift, and with the suspension hanging there unloaded, grabbed the top of the wheel and pushed and pulled on it. You could clearly see the play in the joints.
LOL! Yea. But I think I would be MORE pissed if it WAS the perches, after all that. I understand that there unloaded. But my theorie is that I would prefer to see what they do at or closer to ride height, especialy the steering. So the block of wood mentioned in the guide and book make sense to me.
so i know this thread is month or so old, but I found this tonight while searching for suspension rebuild items.. http://www.dallasmustang.com/mustang-parts/product/BALL-JOINT-1968-1973-LOWER/3846
The ford repair manual states that the lower ball joints should be replaced if they are "perceptibly loose" Uppers are allowed 0.250" of play...beyond that they should be replaced. As for the proper method of checking the ball joints... Upper ball joint inspection: Raise the vehicle on a frame hoist or jack stands till the front wheels/suspesion are at full extension.(this will unload the upper ball joint) Adjust wheel bearings at this point. Attach a dial indicator to the upper arm and position the indicator so the plunger rests against the inner of the wheel rim adjacent to the upper arm ball joint. Grasp tire at top and bottom and slowly move the tire in and out.(you are checking radial play in the joint)Note the reading on the dial indicator.If the reading exceeds specifications...replace the upper ball joint.(spec listed above) Lower controll arm ball joint inspection: Raise vehicle and place jack stands under lower arms.(put vehicle weight on arms/stands)this will unload the lower ball joint. Adjust wheel bearings at this point. Attach dial indicator to the lower arm and position the indicator so the plunger rests against the side of the wheel rim adjacent to the lower ball joint. grasp the tire at the top and bottom and slowly move the tire in and out. Note the reading (radial play) If the reading exceeds specifications... "replace the lower controll arm" Specification listed above. I know this is a day late and a dollar short but...Hope this helps...
Thanks for the info... I haven't given up on this, but I'm about convinced it's not a ball joint at this point. Raising the car with or without unloading the suspension I really can't get any noticeable play, so I've about decided it's something else. The current suspect is a worn spring isolator, but since that's not dangerous it hasn't been high on my list... I will get to it eventually though. The noise only happens now with a hard right turn and/or while hitting bumps with with a major load in the car during a turn.
So, sounds like you need not turn hard right and hit a bump while the car is loaded...wait... who's loaded when this happens?
It's a far cry from when I started on this car - used to be "don't turn hard and don't hit a bump!" or "don't hit a bump or you'll turn hard!" Now I'm just chasing down every little noise I can find.
