engine trouble need major help!!!!

Man its all cake. Adjust the carb. Google it. Those 1 barrels are pretty simple.
Make sure your points are gapped.

Bet it will purr

 

im praying..... hoping. well thanks for all the help and motivation. any one know what might be wrong with the jeep

 

With the summer time increase in heat my Comet was running like CRAP.

I had the same problem - wiggle in the breaker plate was messing up the setting of the points. Dwell is + or - about 4 degrees from 35 to 39 for a six. What I did was "click" the breaker plate to the left and set the dwell high, then "click" the breaker plate to the right and set the dwell low so that the average was within range of where it's supposed to be set. This worked fine for a few weeks then they'd deteriorate and when the engine got hot in traffic I was basically running on 5 cylinders.

Spent $75 on a Pertronix ignition last week - instant fix - no misfire. Timing was very erratic before now it's steady on 6 degrees on regular pump gas and no pinging.

Also, 180 thermostat and a $5.00 bicycle bottle as a coolant recovery system keeps the engine running colder.

My 1 barrel carb chokes in heat - sitting on the hot intake log and sucking in hot air it would stumble and I'd smell gas boiling out. Shop Vac suction nozzle (they're BIG) zap-strapped behind my grille feeds cold air through an aluminum foil duct pipe stuffed around the rad and battery to the air intake (carefully avoiding the solenoid terminals). Carb doesn't bog down any more.

I think thermostats may start to stick partially open or closed before they fail - guages told me that my Comets temp was consistently high and not coming down when I sped up on the highway which is when I decided to change mine. DUnno if Jeep thermostats have a pressure relief valve, so maybe try starting your jeep from COLD with the rad cap off and wait for the engine to warm up - around 170 or 190 the thermostat should start to open and you'll see foamy hot water moving.

 

well now..... thank you for your help. did your engine fluctuate like mine needle jumping like 300 rpms through out the revs? im going to go to the j/y and get a dizzy on Monday. hope fully that helps do you know of any way to make a heat shield spacer for the carb?
edit: it has been 100+ here for the last week its suposed to go down in to the low 90's tomorrow

 

Jeep- Do a pressure test on cooling sys. to be sure it holds pressure.Replace the cap with a new one rated at 16lbs. Be sure you have good coolant (fresh) at least a 50/50 mix.Check all the sensors. Mav- If you run points be sure the condenser is new with points.

 

the whole thing is it has the hidden radiator... you gill it through the overflow tank:16suspect. has a dealer only cap..... its the crappiest cooling system ever... 90 jeep cherokee... i hate it so much.

p.s. the mav is better had the vacuum advance hoses backwards, points were set to close, and all the plugs were gaped at .050. its alive (again)...

 

Phenolic resin for carb spacer - aluminum plate for heat shield

Yes... mine is still 'touchy' as far as throttle response when it gets hot outside. Even holding the gas pedal steady while I drive, the engine surges a little. Probably due to an overheated carb since I lube all the linkages and the carb is clean. Mine has about a 300 rpm twitch as well. Doesn't happen when accelerating - just when cruising at a steady pace.

The best thermal insulator is phenolic resin (natural colour is brown/beige) and they run 30.00 to 40.00 for a typical 1" spacer (usually recommended size to make a performance/efficiency improvement). You might also find a cheap aluminum spacer at a scrap yard which should help since aluminum heats and cools quickly. I previously found a carb spacer that has a built in water tube supposedly "cooled" by the cooling system - not sure if that would actually help or not since I never used it.

I work at a hospital and got a piece of black "lab countertop" from a chemistry lab since it's the same thing (it was free and it's 1" thick). Will use it to cut and grind my own spacer. Need to figure out a throttle cable before I hook it up.

A CHEAP and EFFECTIVE carb spacer is a block of wood but this is not a good long term solution - just a means of seeing it it fixes your problem.

Since it would cost about $1 to make one and maybe $4.00 for a couple of gaskets (top and bottom torqued to 5 or 7 ft. lbs.) - this is a CHEAP but SHORT TERM FIX.... wood is an excellent insulator and race drivers test spacer designs by trimming 1" blocks. Eventually, wood will absorb gas and become a fire hazard - not recommended for daily drivers since race cars are usually in a state of constant prep and tuning and don't sit long with fuel in them and a battery hooked up - but you could try it for a couple of days and see of it solves the problem.

Hood scoops can feed cold air into the carb system - but some people here noted that ducts around a hood scoop also act to vent hot air from the engine compartment and make it all run cooler.

 

That is one of the worst cooling systems I ever worked on. My sister's Jeep had that system. Very hard to get all the air out after working on it.
I finally went to the junk yard and got a radiator out of a newer Jeep that had the same engine in it and replaced hers. Now it had a regular type over flow and radiator cap. Runs cool all of the time now.
If you get a new Distributor make sure to get all of the wiring and the ignition box as well OR just buy a Pertronics set up for it and have it running in 30 minutes.
clint

 

Thomas, just a few (unlikely) things along with what was already put on the thread.

First of all, I never tried a carb spacer on a Maverick, but was forced to use one on a Ford 240 inline six. When I first went in to rebuild the carb, noticed that two of the springs inside has actually 'stayed compressed' due to so much heat. So, I used a spacer made of gasket material. I already had it on hand, so don't know what is was off of. Was a little over 1/4" thick. Definitely helped.

Now, does your car have factory air? If so, if your condensor clean? Also, make sure there is no mud/leaves etc., trapped between your condensor and your radiator.

Does your engine have an EGR on it? They can make your engine run like pure $%^& if there is carbon behind them or they are sticking.

Lastly, when is the last time your radiator was cleaned out and thermostat changed?

Good luck on getting it in order. Just don't overheat your engine new or used. If new, you can do the rings in right now if they get too hot on breakin, not to mention slight seizing and cylinder was scoring. Course, both of the above can also occur from a very lean condition.

Jack