way back in the day when i worked at pepboys they had engine diagnostics machine that would determine compression from the cranking amprage that each cylinder used. it was really accurate and only took a few min to do. i dont know what or how the tests were done on this car to get the results but they dont make sence. i thought they could have been leak down numbers also but then they are backwards. the 10 would be the good cylinders and the 25 would be the bad cylinders.
That will only tell him which cylinder is low. Leak down will tell you if its a head r&r or engine. No need to pull engine if its a bad valve.
I know you are right Darren, BUT the idea here is not to confuse this guy. AND I don't know if he has access to a compressor. He can use oil to see if it the rings or not, then its gasket/valves. Just trying to keep it simple.
To me, it sounds like you got the firing order wrong or something in the reassembly, after you finished the cleanup of the engine compartment. Check all the vacuum hoses, electrical connections and the plug wires for damage, as 71gold said, and to see if the firing order is right. Sounds to me like something simple. If those compression numbers are right, the engine has internal problems. If it was running ok before, just cleaning it up shouldn't change the internals of the engine, unless you took the head off of the engine. Good luck!
- timing needed adjustment - bad kink in vacuum advance hose - #3 plug wire bit me and the end was ruined so I replaced all plug wires the problem was fixed. re ran compression test, this time I was there #1 = 120 #2 = 120 #3 = 80 (they told me to keep an eye on #3 plug from time to time due to the lower compression) #4 = 120 #5 = 118 #6 = 110 why this problem sprung up I don't know but it was a combination of little things I guess, she runs as smooth as butter now and I took her on a long drive to see how she did.
