Ordered my Rod & Custom front cross member...

It's not highjacking if you own it I don't think lol. The 71-72 engine bays must be alot smaller then. I'd like to see a 71 and 74 side by side. The 2.3 for the later year Pintos is a bolt in deal. I've got plenty of room between the radiator and the front of the engine so I dont think thats going to be a problem either. I'll be running electric fans. And with the center mount turbo manifold the downpipe should clear the firewall. Guess I'll find out when its sitting in there.

 

It's at least 4 inches shorter, and probably the same amount more narrow.

I'd have to ask my dad as he knows all the specifics. They used to race the car in NHRA letter stock back in the '70s & 80s, so he knows all the ins and outs for each model year.

 

More pics. The first one is the passenger side frame cut, welded, and ground.



The second pic is the coil-over mount sitting on the driver's frame rail. You can see the two bolts in the center that provide height adjustment for the coil-over. That way you can adjust your ride height without pre-loading the spring. Very good idea.

 

Looking good so far

Did you have to deal with any frame corrosion? I found some thinning areas on the inside of my drivers side rail behind where I removed the stock tower parts. Full Tilt supplied me with a plate to completely span this area on both frame rails with their system.

I was wondering what size wire you were using and what your best welder settings wound up being so as not to burn through the frame?

 

I just noticed that you picture shows your driver's side frame rail. You have your passenger side top A-frame mount in the photo, not the driver's. Your top A-frames must angle back towards the firewall not angle forward towards the radiator. This is due to the built in anti-dive in the geometry. Be careful.

 

I am using .035 flux core wire on the lowest heat setting, and a feed speed of 3. No real numbers to go along with this unfortunately. Here is the welder I'm using. Lincoln Pro Mig 175



Yeah, there are definitely some thin spots. I've been using 14 gauge (.083) sheet to patch up the thin spots and holes as I find them.

 

Yeah, I know. I took the picture before I looked at what I'd done. They're clearly marked "Driver" and "Passenger" and the anti-dive angle is pretty obvious too.

 

Thanks, my own welder is a Lincoln Handy Mig. Looks very much like yours and has worked well for me so far.

 

Just a good thing you caught it before you welded it solid.

If it was me, the way my luck goes, it would have been double welded before I caught it.

 

I'm not there yet. Still lots of grinding, welding, and measuring to do before I get to put the new parts in there.

Maybe I can get some work done this weekend. I don't think the wife has anything planned for me.

 

It was 40 degrees last Saturday and I worked with the garage doors open. Supposed to be the same this weekend.

I just love these heat waves.

 

Its looking good Adam! I used a Lincoln Mig welder to weld mine in as well, but it was a 220v unit. I have a 110v unit now which works fine but that 220v sure is nice for welding up suspension stuff.

I have to tell you watching your progress lit a fire under me. I started banging away on the Maverick last night. I should be done with the firewall this weekend! I'll have to update my build thread.

 

Yep, seeing progress breeds more progress

 

Mine is a 220V as well. I have used it for the roll cage, sheet metal, and frame repairs. Pretty versatile welder and it didn't really break the bank either. It also has a pretty decent duty cycle. I've never had a problem with it crapping out on me because it got too hot.

 

I finished welding and grinding the frame rails last night. Now they're fully boxed. Got the crossmember and the spring perches mocked up too. They're just clamped to the frame right now. I'll post up some pics tonight. I also started looking at the old lincoln engine mounts and came up with some ideas on how to make them work. Should be interesting. I'll post up pics tonight.