I know there are different ways of lowering the front end of the cars, but how do you guys lower the rear to get a lower stance? Are there coil springs in the back that you can cut also or is it something completely different? BTW, I keep hearing how lowering the front a bit may improve steering, but can the same be said for the rear?
Another nice effect of lowering blocks is it makes installing Explorer rear disc brakes a good bit easier.
Another nother nice effect of lowering blocks is you can take them off when you decide you don't like them, and put it back to stock.
yeah can someone take a pic? I dont even know what a lowering block looks like. Also, can they be found at any auto store? And bw, how reliable are they? They dont fall off easily do they?
They don't fall off, because the nipple in the top of the spring fits into a hole in the bottom of the block, Then the block nipple at top locks into the spring perch, and then the u-bolt pinches it all together. Mine also has a 2-degree pinion shim, which again has holes in the middle to keep everything from sliding around. This is the 1" lowering block kit I bought for about $20 at AutoZone several years ago.
That pic is dangerous! Notice how the U bolts and shock plate are below the wheel rim! You NEVER want anything below the wheel rim, also know as the scrub line. If that tire blows, you would be sitting on the U bolts and shock plate, skidding down the highway! You want the wheel rim to touch before anything else if the tire blows, that way the car will still roll and not skid.
Yeah, that's a good whole 3 inches lowered there... that would not be good for axle wind-up, plus the above caution.
I partially agree, in many cases that can be true, but you have to consider the whole thing systematically. From your link: "A vehicle is most stable when the spring seat at the axle is closest to a line drawn between the front and rear eye of the spring." The combination of my much stronger springs (and consequently their deeper arch) with the lowering blocks, puts my car's axle in ideal territory according to this. Better than stock, by that reckoning. I would never consider blocks on weak springs, but overall my particular combination of mods to the rear suspension, (stout springs, clamps, good shocks and of course blocks) has done wonders for my car's handling. Add to that strong springs up front, wide Z-rated tires with short sidewalls, and an overall lowered center of gravity and my Mav corners like a slot car. I'm not kidding - excellent grip, minimal body roll, zero understeer and predictable, controllable oversteer. Once I get new swaybars it will be even better. Of course I'm not attributing all that to the blocks, but the system as a whole, of which the blocks are an important part. I don't know of another way I could have got the spring stiffness I want without raising the ride height, short of spending crazy money on a custom leaf pack that almost certainly wouldn't have been exactly right. Didn't mean to get on a rant. I'm just saying blocks don't always negatively impact handling. And maybe it's my leaf springs or the fact that they're clamped, or maybe I'm just lucky, but axle wrap doesn't appear to be a problem. I've watched how the rear behaves while having a friend brake-stand and then launch, and I'm not seeing it. The back of the car lifts up a bit, that's all. Totally true, excellent point. I never thought of that. That's a pretty scary scenario. 3" blocks are way too much anyway. Also makes me glad I'm running 17" wheels.
I have a similar setup, on the rear at least, as faceless, but add in Cal-Tracs and I have never had any issues of axlewrap, wheel hop, etc. My front suspension is much stiffer, as well, but I think it could use a bit more "oomph!" but much better than stock. I also only have 1" block, 4-leaf "heavy duty" springs out back. So they almost cancel themselves out in changing the rear height from stock. I only have an overall of 1/2"-3/4" drop from stock.
