horribble grinding and clunking noise coming from my rear end...

Discussion in 'Technical' started by random hero, Mar 14, 2010.

  1. random hero

    random hero 1972 ford maverick I6

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  2. Boosha

    Boosha Built to run hard

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    I've always cleaned mine out using a couple of old medium sized towels,stuff a towel into one of the tubes,and using a broom handle,push the towel towards the center chunk housing.After you get all the oil and crap to the center of the housing,you can use a shopvac to suck up all the crud,or just start slopping it up with some old towels.Get a couple cans of brake cleaner,and repeat a couple more times.If you have a telescoping magnet,run it through the tubes a couple times.You can pressure wash the hogs head,or run it up the the car wash,then blast with air,but be sure to coat it with some wd-40 or similar,til ready to install.
     
  3. random hero

    random hero 1972 ford maverick I6

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    any idea on where i can find a wheel bearing fast...i cant find any that are in stock
     
  4. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    Yes...and...no
    the seal no... the reinstall of the pinion shaft...yes.
     
  5. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    :hmmm: Could it be because that page is only 9 weeks old :D
     
  6. Boosha

    Boosha Built to run hard

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    Local advance auto has them in stock.$10.44
    Look up part number 203 made by national bearing.I believe this is the right one.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2010
  7. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    and seals...PN# 9569S
     
  8. random hero

    random hero 1972 ford maverick I6

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  9. Boosha

    Boosha Built to run hard

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  10. JDHill

    JDHill Member

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    That's correct, :yup: however you may need a slap hammer to remove the axles.
    Needed one on my 72 Grabber :mad: If anyone else has another way, to remove the axles I sure would like to know it too :tiphat:
     
  11. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    Yes sir!!!

    There is a lot more to changing the pinion seal than the average joe may be ready for. Any time you pull the yoke you really should replace the crush sleve and you will need to re-set the bearing pre-load. Since it's leaking , yes replace it but if you (the OP) don't have the experience of working on the rear gear set you'll be money ahead having someone do it for you.

    Pull the drum, turn it around and slip it over the studs. Next, thread the lug nuts on about two full turns and use the drum as a make shift slide hammer. Most times this will do the trick but if it's stubborn and looks like it isn't going to budge then get the right tool before you ruin the drum.
     
  12. JDHill

    JDHill Member

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    :tiphat: Thank you for that I needed that info too. Also,I have been told after a swift slam from the slap happy hammer (as to why I referred to it as a slap hammer before), or the brake drum, if the axle seems stuck in place and difficult to get out it may be because the housing is bent. May have to be checked. :thumbs2: Found that out from some one right here on the forum. (y)
     

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