went out today for the first time in over week and a half of waiting for legal issues with a glass company to be over and fixed ( wont get in to that ) and she drove fine going out ,felt like the rear suspension was wandering around more than normal on bumpy highways guessing shocks are gone and then coming home the brake pedal started getting soft and then about 5 miles from home no brakes.......... i looked at master cylinder and no fluid and then the front for leaks didnt find anything and then looked at the rear and both sides have brake fluid all the way around the inside of the tires so guess its time for a rebuild for the rear and get a new master cylinder since from what i know its the stock one ( for drums all the way around and now i have discs in the front ) just need to know what master cylinder to get. and will this kit for 70-73 mustangs work for a stock 72 maverick rear end?? here is the link http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Itemdy00.asp?CODIV=0101&T1=BK70R1%2001
have your drums checked to see if they can be turned again. It might save you more money. The hardware stuff is pretty cheap. It might be cheaper to piece together a kit then to buy that one. I spent twenty to have the drums turned. Then twelve for the hardware kit. The shoes where twenty and the wheel cylinders where eight each. So it was around $60 for all.
I wud change hoses also. If ur going thru the brakes U may as well do hoses then u won't have to do the job over _ not to mention having one rupture. I did mine recently and changed everything cept steel lines. They look ok so did'nt change them. I believe my car had a MC for drums but car came w/ non pwr-fr disk. It was leaking ever so slight inside the pass side of firewall. I do have less effort to stop but the brake pedal sits abt inch higher _ I don't like that. Im planning on putting in another brake rod (adjustable) soon. The kit from stangeunlimited seems reasonably priced to me. If it's quality stuff I wud probably consider buying it. I like having everything I need B4 I start. In most cases I don't C where U save a lot of money piecing parts. The vendors cud'nt market that stuff if nobody was buying it __ knowing the quality wud be my only concern. I suppose it comes down to what convience is worth to U in time, travel and money.
I forgot to mention that i have a brake shop next door and all the parts have a lifetime warranty. So prices may vary with parts stores. The reason that kit cost so much are the actual drums. There the most expensive part.
I just changed my master for a leak. The rod in the new one was about an eighth of an inch longer than what was on the car. I tried everything to get the rod out of the new master but the new retention clip did its job and beat me fair and square. The pedal is a bit high now. I know I wont get the rod out of the master so I'm going to cut a 1/4" shim to go between the master and firewall. If you can get a master that does not have the rod installed already it would make life easier. Then you can install the adjustable type rod. What ever rod you use make sure the clip holds it into the master or else you will have to build a stop for the brake pedal so you cant lift it and pull the rod out while driving. If you are going from drum to disc master you will need to change the fittings on the car to match the disc master cylinder. Get the fittings when you buy the master. The line is 3/16". I think the fittings were 3/8 and 1/2 (dont quote me on that) but you can match them up at the store. I suggest a NEW master not a rebuild. Rebuilds have a high failure rate and with these cars the rebuild could be pretty old on the shelf. My new master at Carquest was around 70 bucks trade.
I guess i got ripped off also i didnt notice anything about locking down the rod. Does it have to do anything with me having power brakes?
so i can just get a new mc for the stock non/power drums and keep using them with my front discs just fine? and that kit will work from what im seeing and yea i like to have everything right there together ill probably go out and pull the drums off and look at all the hoses and lines to see if i may need to put new it thanks guys so who has the best master cylinder??
ok pulled the drums off and both cylinders on either side are leaking pretty bad and all the lines look good no major rust just normal road dirt and grease so doesnt look like i need anything more than just a kit, the master cylinder and a set of hoses for the rear
My car has shim between the firewall and master. I don't think it came from Ford like that and I don't think it's quite 1/4". It was on the car when I got it. I believe the MC was for pw brakes - I stess believe cuz Im not sure. Anyway, when I got the new "AutoKrafters" MC the pedal came up abt 25mm. The car is easier to stop now but I can't say it was due to having the correct MC for non-pwr "disk/drum" brakes. After all the MC that came off had a slight leak frm inside firewall. I understand the non pwr units have a smaller dia. plunger than the ones for pwr brakes. BTW>>> I wud never use a rebuilt Master as long as I can buy a new one. Too much trouble to have to change it out for a few extra bucks - not to mention the safety aspect.
