I got the kit from innovate motorsports for under $200. The kit is pretty easy to install it looks like. There is the LC-1 wideband controller and the gauge, and most important the software and serial cable all included. There is a bung and O2 sensor all included. It's awesome how complete this kit is. I didn't need to buy anything at all. Bryant gave me a pod for the gauge, that's the only thing that I provided. It says to run the LC-1 from outside of the car into the cabin. So I placed it here for now and left enough slack to install it a little closer to the O2 sensor. I had a hole in the front firewall that I ran the wires through. I really need to have something cover the sharp edges of that hole, on my to do list. Bryant had this nice metal bracket laying around that he gave me (I keep losing track of all the stuff he has given me, eventually I gotta pay him for all this stuff . . . ) There is a nice plug in connector in the back of this gauge and the wire loom is separate and really clean and well done. The gauge installs pretty easily. Here is the wiring from the LC-1, there are 2 leads that need grounding. There is a calibration wire that also needs grounding. Brown goes to the gauge and there are those jacks that I think the serial cable plugs into. Here is the wiring from the gauge. One connects to the LC-1. One goes to the headlight to dim it down at night. One is ground and the other one is for good luck . . . or maybe something else, I forgot right now. Here is the calibration button, you press it and hold it. Installs between the ground of the LC-1. The kit even includes this little light thing to tell you the status of the AF meter. Don't know how important it is to have this, I figure if I have a gauge I'm good to go. But will install it anyway. I've run a wire from the fuse box with a 10amp fuse to the LC-1 wiring. The kit says to ground to the engine so I gotta redo that because initially I was gonna ground in the cabin, that's easy. I hooked up the calibration and the calibration and indicator light. So just gotta compelete everything and bryant will help me install the bung and O2 sensor. It's recommended to have a copper heat shield over the bung, I'll run that by bryant.
Looks great, thanks for the write up. Something ive learned from the import guys running this kit is if you ever need a replacement O2 sensor order it from retrotek, its the same one innovative uses in this kit but they sell it for three times cheaper.
I have the same kit but I got the analog gauge to match the other gauges in my car. On sale and with MS Cashback I paid $139.
we will put an o2 bung on both sides. then we can check and see wich side runs leaner. we will tune based on that side. that way we dont go lean on the unmonitored side. i suspect it will be really close to same on both sides.
the plan is to have larger exhaust installed. I don't recall what bryant recommended but maybe the x-pipe would be a good idea.
i would run it on the collector. i'd do two though, one on each side. also closer to the head the better. personally i wouldn't leave it in those sensors don't last! there i only use it when you need to tune it.
invative gives a recomdation of where to put the sensor. ill have to double check but i think it was about a 1 foot back from the collector.
"On TURBO CHARGED vehicles: Install the bung downstream from the turbo before the catalytic converter. The high exhaust pressure before the turbo interferes with the lambda measurement and the high exhaust temperatures encountered there can damage the sensor. Do NOT install the Bung below the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position. Condensation can form in the exhaust pipe and permanently damage the sensor. 6 o’clock is the absolute worst position to mount the sensor. WHEN INSTALLED IN THE EXHAUST, THE OXYGEN SENSOR MUST BE CONNECTED AND OPERATING WITH THE LC-1 WHENEVER THE CAR IS RUNNING. AN UN-POWERED OXYGEN SENSOR WILL BE DAMAGED WHEN EXPOSED TO EXHAUST GAS. The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor hexagon) should not exceed 500oC or 900 oF. If these temperatures are exceeded in your application you should either install a copper heat sink (instructions below) or the Innovate Motorsports Heat-Sink Bung extender (HBX-1). It is NOT a good idea to connect the LC-1 permanently to 12V and switch it on with a separate switch before the vehicle is started. Depending on the climate and the sensor position in the exhaust, condensation water can form in the exhaust pipes. This condensation water could then be blown by the exhaust stream against the hot sensor when the car is started. The resulting heat shock can permanently damage the sensor."
a few inches back from the collector we drilled a pilot hole, then used a bigger drill to make the right size hole. We held the bung in place with a C clamp and welded it in place. It wasn't hard to do but of course you can see what the weld looks like . . . let's just not talk about it. Here is the LED. We used that for the calibration.
Exactly where and how I did mine. I did the analog gauge, and put the bung a little higher up on the pipe, but all the rest is the same. I had lots of problems with the parts, though, and ended up going through 2 sets, finally getting a working set on the third set. One had a bad "computer" box, and we never figured out what was wrong with the second kit. Tech support and I tested all the components and they tested fine, but would not work. By the way, great tech support and they stand by their products.
I tried doing some recording at the track and it was a breeze after I installed the software. I was under the impression I could record other data like RPM out of the box but actually there is a $129 unit that has to be purchased separately which allows 5 other channels to be recorded. Makes sense, but I'm gonna hold off for now on getting that.
