Hi guys, Well, the Comet (250 six) just wouldn't idle worth a #@@#$@. It runs good at higher speeds, though. changed the carb, checked for vacuum leaks, etc. I suspect ignition. It has a Duraspark II replacement distributor and blue grommet module. I couldn't check the timing because the marks are hidden under years of grease and rust. The double belt pulley has a very small notch for the timing. When I went to clean it up I checked the distributor just for grins. The rotor doesn't snap back consistently so the timing is probably wandering all over the place at idle. I decided to put the old points distributer back in to eliminate the ignition as a source of idle problems. Checking the voltage at the plus side of the coil I get only 4 volts with the key on and the negative side of the coil grounded. Is that good enough or do I need to replace the ballast resistor? Plugs look good, no misfire at high speeds with the Duraspark so maybe it isn't a problem. But I want to use the old points system while I'm redoing the newer distributor. In the start position there is 12 volts to the coil. This is the original Ford coil, not one from the Duraspark. Thanks, John in Kalifornia
if your changing the distrubtor with out having a timeing light to set the timeing with then thats the first problem that jumps out to me. the 4 volts seems pretty low. i would expect to see around 8 volts. you need to take some sand paper or emery cloth and clean the balancer and find you timeing marks. use some white out, touch up paint or nail polish to paint the marks so they are easy to read with the timeing light.
4 volts is not enough, you should have 6, while in the cranking mode you've got 12, so your starter selinoid is working correctly. Change the ballist resistor and see what happens.
you might try adding a wire thats hot when the switch is on, and dead with switch off, and add a resister to it.
My car runs better when it has a direct line to the coil so im running a simple line with a toggle switch inside so i can cut the power when its off and gives me time to figure out the problem later. I use it as a daily driver
I would check for a voltage drop across the ignition switch. Might have some corroded or dirty contacts.
I recently replaced the ignition switch... I was going to check what kind of voltage was getting to it. it will hardly run now so i think the switch i got might have been bad to (from Autozone if that makes a difference) the wires dont look to bad but im need to fallow it farther back to the switch and all
I'm thinking of jumpering from the battery directly to the hot side of the coil to see if that helps. karguyz
thats a good way to burn out the coil. if it has full bat voltage for to long it will melt the widings out inside. you need to trace the power wire back to see where the voltage drop is. check the connections for carossion.
I measured the resistance of the coil. It was only .5 ohms, which I think is too low. (Don't have a manual to check it with). I bought an Accel "Superstock" coil for a replacement. It measures 1.2 ohms primary resistance. Doesn't seem to make much difference in the running of the car but I feel better about the whole electrical thing. The idle problem was caused by a defective manifold to carb adapter gasket. Thanks for the replys, Karguyz
Coil Voltage - Checking & Issue resolution Bought a 72 w/302, converted to pertronix electronic ignition. How do I check to assure the coil is getting the proper voltage? What is the proper voltage? I've been told it needs to have 12 volts for electronic ignition. With my key to the on position, I connect a tester red from tester to positive on coil and black from tester to negative on coil. It reads 4 volts. If I need 12 volts, how do I do this? I've heard Mavericks do and dont have a ballast resistor (mustang forum). Also heard there to run a wire from the ignition to coil. Any help appreciated. Car runs smooth but feels held back.....that makes sense if I'm not getting enough to the coil.
