302 guru help w/build

Discussion in 'Technical' started by pong, Sep 7, 2010.

  1. pong

    pong Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    az
    Vehicle:
    1972 mercury comet gt
    I've checked into it and I don't think a 347 stroker is in my near future. So I'm gonna do a 302. I'd like to build this one with as much hp as I can get out of it for 2000 + -. Here is a list of parts I already have.
    68 302 block(302 stamped in lifter valley)
    heads(69 302 stamped w/DOOE) no "humps" in exaust ports
    1.5 in long headers
    holley 600 cfm
    edelbrock 289 rpm intake

    What else do I need? Any cam suggestions?
    What pistons and rods should I get?
    the pistons I have are shot and they're not flat tops. I think the crank I have is fine. I"ll have all that ckecked out when I have the block done.
    So far I have spent 40 bucks so that leaves around 1960 left.
    How much hp can I expect? What is truely reasonable out of a old pre 82 302.
    This is gonna be a part or two at a time thing for me. I'll be doing alot of research and can also use some help on where to find info. books, web sites ect...
     
  2. my70mav

    my70mav Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2009
    Messages:
    616
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    88
    Location:
    Elk Grove,ca
    Vehicle:
    69.5 maverick
    what are your goals for the car?full dose of engine machine work can run about 8-900 bucks plus parts.do your heads need to be rebuilt?could be another 3-400 there.cam can be had for as little as 100 bucks depending on brand. if it is a c4 it would be a good idea to put in a shift kit.a decent set of gears would be good money spent,i know its not engine like you were asking but switching to a lower set of gears will feel like you added another 50 horse.
     
  3. pong

    pong Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    az
    Vehicle:
    1972 mercury comet gt
    I'd like to get a track lock and 3.55, but thats gonna have to wate. I have a edelbrock 280 cam now and good lifters. I have a 3 speed on the floor. For now the gears and tranny have to wate. I blew my motor last week and it wasted the block and I think the crank. I was able to find a crank and block for 40 bucks. As far as the cam goes I'd like to put in one with a different attitude. More agressive. The heads are pretty good. I found a guy that claims he runs 12's with the same heads and 11's with juice. I'm hoping he gets back with me on what else he is using.
     
  4. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

    Joined:
    May 3, 2004
    Messages:
    4,858
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Seattle area
    Vehicle:
    1966 Mustang, 1972, 73, 73 and 73 Mavericks
    The heads are built for 4800 - 5000 rpm and intake screams 6000 rpm - The mismatched parts are not the best start. A good cam for that manifold and head combination is the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam. It is built to match the intake and will deliver a good boost in power over the stock set-up if you have 9:1 or higher compression. If you have stock pistons then you start with 8.5 - 8.7:1 compression - consider increasing it to 10:1 to get the most out of you street engine.
     
  5. pong

    pong Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    az
    Vehicle:
    1972 mercury comet gt
    Thats kinda where I'm headed(10.1 pistons) What about gt40 heads? and can I still use flat tappet hydr lifters? :huh: I never pushed it past 4800 rpms before it went. But it did run hot a few times before I put the champion rad. in it and who knows before I got it
     
  6. idrivemav

    idrivemav Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2010
    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    texas
    Vehicle:
    1975 maverick
    i have a fully built set of gt40p heads for sale for $300 with rockers they came off my mav im runnin a stock crank with scat rods and speed pro forged pistons but summit sells a full rotating assembly for like a grand
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2010
  7. my70mav

    my70mav Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2009
    Messages:
    616
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    88
    Location:
    Elk Grove,ca
    Vehicle:
    69.5 maverick
    you can run gt40 heads,i do.

    is this the cam you have?
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2122/


    i would stick to 9.5 comp with a cam that wont bleed of any pressure down low.

    what do you plan to do with the car?
     
  8. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

    Joined:
    May 3, 2004
    Messages:
    4,858
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Seattle area
    Vehicle:
    1966 Mustang, 1972, 73, 73 and 73 Mavericks
    You can use hydraulic lifters to about 6500 - with the right parts.
    GT40 heads are great - GT40P heads make it difficult to use headers and change plugs. You may get 6000 rpm out of it before it begins to choke but if you plan to do that then spend some money on getting the engine balanced and use an oil scraper or windage tray. That will keep the oil in the pan instead of wrapped around the crank.
     
  9. pong

    pong Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    az
    Vehicle:
    1972 mercury comet gt
    Yes that's the one. good bottom end pull but that was all.
    I'd like to drive it on weekends and the occasional run what ya brung kind of thing. Steet, strip (I am assuming that that is the cam. I found some paper work in the car that matches those #'s and I used the timing recom. and the car ran much better. 14 deg timing)
     
  10. pong

    pong Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    az
    Vehicle:
    1972 mercury comet gt
    I also was ready something about that. Freed up some hp on the higher rpms too
     
  11. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

    Joined:
    May 3, 2004
    Messages:
    4,858
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Seattle area
    Vehicle:
    1966 Mustang, 1972, 73, 73 and 73 Mavericks
    A scraper or windage tray MAY save you some hp on the top end but it WILL keep oil in the pan and your engine well lubed at high rpm. That alone is worth the time and money to have a scraper in my engine.
     
  12. pong

    pong Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    az
    Vehicle:
    1972 mercury comet gt
    There is a few "pick and pull" yards out here. How do I id gt40 heads? And can I use the same lifters and push rods?:huh:
     
  13. my70mav

    my70mav Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2009
    Messages:
    616
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    88
    Location:
    Elk Grove,ca
    Vehicle:
    69.5 maverick
    gt 40 heads have 3 bars on the front of them.

    look at the bottom of the page it shows how to id them
    http://www.wrljet.com/fordv8/50.html

    you can use the rockers from the 69 heads and you should be able to use the pushrods from the 69 engine but be sure to check you geometry.
     
  14. justin has a 74

    justin has a 74 Maverick bandit official

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2008
    Messages:
    3,758
    Likes Received:
    9
    Trophy Points:
    112
    Location:
    kentucky
    Vehicle:
    74 maverick /71 grabber /72 maverick
    If you spend over 100 bucks on getting screw in studs installed:16suspect

    Or are you talking about just using the 69 heads and not the gt40s
     
  15. ShadowMaster

    ShadowMaster The Bad Guy

    Joined:
    May 15, 2005
    Messages:
    1,156
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    95
    Location:
    The ShadowLands
    Vehicle:
    1969 1/2 Maverick
    Blind leading the blind again. :woohoo1:
     

Share This Page