Im serious about building up this 351w that i have...could anyone thats done this share their experiences with me? im basically looking for a heads, cam, carb, intake set-up. something that will compliment each other and make some power.
FoMoCo73, How fast do you want to turn your engine? Is the engine in good shape? (pistons, bearings, bores). You will want to have the reciprocating and rotating parts balanced if you expect any real performance. I have a 350 HP 351 W and have all the specs and part numbers for this MILD street engine. It turns 5600 RPM at redline, idles smootly and gets fair gas milage in my 66 Mustang. Decide what you want and let us know. PaulS
track only? mostly street? some street? what trans you using? what do you have now that you want to keep? what will you change? i started out with a mild 351w in a 67 mustang doing 12.60s and went down to 11.14 over a few years in the same car. where do you want to go?
its a 69.5 mav. my plans are to make it faster than i need it ...hehe umm...more of a driver i guess...but id like something to take to the track too. i want to do suspension work too (sway bars, springs) stuff like that.... plan on putting 17" wheels on it. i was thinking of doing this edelbrock power pack thing? with like 400hp. i dont know yet tho....i guess something around those lines... ive got a 1978 351w block that my dad had rebuilt after 60,000 mi. after the rebuild, the car burned down with like 500 mi. on it. so what ive got is a .030 over block thats basically ready to go. id like to just put a set of good heads/a cam/carb/intake on it you know? just dont know what combination to use. ive got like $5000 to play with. i also plan on doing a tremec 5 spd.
FoMoCo73, To get 400 Hp from a 351 W you will need to turn the engine to between 6200 and 7200 RPM. It will have a noticable lope and a high idle. The five speed will eliminate the need for a high stall convertor for an automatic. The pistons should be replaced with forged aluminum and the engine completely balanced. A good high volume oil pump, aftermarket oil pump drive shaft, the highest quality bearings and a windage tray. Your desire for 400 HP turns the engine into a track engine that can be driven on the street with some inconvenience. Think it over. PaulS
A nearly stone-stock 351w with 9-10:1 compression and a good set of heads, mild camshaft, aftermarket intake and aftermarket exhaust headers should get you real close, if not over the 400 HP mark. Dont even worry about stock iron heads, they 'can' reach that goal, but it takes more money and time than just getting a set of aluminum or even aftermarket iron heads. 400 HP 351w=easy.
mavman, with 10:1 compression, 232 SAE duration cam, good heads, balanced engine, windage tray, and good headers a 351 W will only produce 375 - 400 HP. It will idle wildly at 1000 rpm and have an average piston speed of 3616 FPS which is high enough to require forged pistons. To get the same Hp at lower RPM, more compression, forced induction, or nitrous is required. So says the software..... PaulS
the software says my little 351w is pushing 559hp @ 6500rpm with dyno 2000 and 520hp @ 6500 rpm with 2003 all the same specs my shift rpm is 6700
MaverickGrabber, to begin with your CR is 11.25:1 verses 10:1 the cam you are using is 300 duration as opposed to the 232 for my data. Your software lists the maximum volumetric efficiency at 98.5 which will require tuned intake and exaust for that specific engine at your peak HP RPM. Your engine is also stroked to 3.85 from the stock 3.5 inches. We were discussing a 351 W not a stroker 393 Cu " engine. Run my data with stock bore and stroke, compression of 10:1 and a 232 duration cam for 6200 RPM maximum. PaulS
i know it runs good was just showing the def softwear comes up not the same my engine is built for street strip..idles around 1100...it works good on the street makes passing cars and getting on the freeway easy dont even have to put it in 2nd gear just leave it in drive with the 3.80 gears
Or you could run the data for my engine and tell me what the HP is that I am producing. bore: 4.030 stroke: 3.50 compression: 10:1 ported and polished iron heads, guide plates and studs balanced rotating and reciprocating parts windage tray and baffled pan deck milled .010 cam: Edelbrock #2182 roller rockers Manley intake valves: #1760 Manley exhaust valves: #1761 intake: Edelbrock #2181 See what your program gives me for HP at max HP RPM - we can compare results PaulS
would need flow numbers for the heads the AFRs used info from the chart i got with them there 185 castings but they reworked them for a big windsor
When comparing cam duration numbers, be sure you are measuring the same way. Sounds like the 300 is at the valve and 232 is at the cam. The Edelbrock website shows their Performer RPM making 400hp at far less than 7000 rpm, at the flywheel of course. While they are running headers that won't fit in most chassis for the dyno test, the equipment they put on should come real close, if you believe their readings. From the real dyno tests that I have seen in tha mags, I don't have much reason to doubt them. 400hp in a 351w can be very streetable, IMO. You just need some good heads. One of the mags got 400hp on a roller 302 shortblock with the stock cam and AFR 185s. With that in mind, a 351w with similar specs shouldn't be that tough.
My cam specs are the industry standard of SAE duration (.050" valve lift) Show me the specs! - a stock cam only allows an engine to turn around 5-6K when it gets max power - Now you can get 400 HP at 5000 RPM with a small block ford - but you need a big blower or a good shot of nitrous or a 17:1 compression ratio running alcohol or propane. Heads allow an engine to breathe - no arguement! and with over ratio rockers you can get more RPM out of a stock cam but if the shortblock doesn't have the ability to generate pressures then you get only a modest boost in HP output. Statistics don't lie but statistitions do use partial information to lie. The fact is that the one modification that will increase HP faster than any other mod is cylinder pressure. If you double the cylinder pressure you will nearly tripple the HP with no other mods. If you double the RPM you only get a maximum of double the HP with no other mods. 1 HP = 33000 Ft Lbs of torque per minute. HP = P.L.A.N. - Pressure x Length of the stroke x Area of the bore x Number of strokes per minute - losses due to friction and parasitic drags. I just wish it was easy to find out what your pressure really is - it is NOT cranking pressure - it is average combustion pressure. At peak torque it is the highest and it begins to drop off again after that. The typical engine loses 10 - 20% of its HP just making the HP. going back to the rear wheels it loses more through the clutch (slippage), transmission gearing, the differential gearing and finally the tires. I would be interested in how a 302 with a stock cam gets 400 HP - doesn't compute! PaulS
