That's my thoughts also. I can see the excessive pressure weakening the seals over time, and I know the excessive pressure robs some HP but shouldn't leak on start up. I'm going to try the orange/red Felpro. Might even try a crank sleeve, will know more when I pull it AGAIN .
As everyone before me has said and I'll add to be VERY careful that no sealer gets on the lip of the seal! Use it very,very sparingly! Also feel the crankshaft surface for any small nicks or roughness you can't see. Also,if it has one, check the main cap drain and make sure it is open.Good luck on it! Iv'e been down aggravation alley before too!
OK,went to Darrel's over the weekend and gave him a hand pulling the engine.Replaced the rear seal,and got everything bolted back up,and within 10 minutes,oil starts dripping.I get down there and the oil is dripping from inside the bell,right under the flexplate.Any clues?I installed the seal the way i always have on my engines and never had them leak,but this one's got me stumped!Thanks all for any input.
Have you been using sealer on the crank to flexplate bolts? You need to because the holes go through to the crankcase
Yes,used sealer on the bolts,and on the main cap.Lubed the seals,and used a dab of sealent applied with a tooth pick on the ends of the seal.Seals were installed with the lip facing forward,and offset a 1/4".Crank snout was clean with no scratches or pitting,and no wear marks,and the screw-in galley plugs were dry,as was the plug behind the cam.I've done the very same things to my engines I've built with no leaks,but this one...I don't know.I'm thinking maybe the snout is just wore and may need a sleeve?It is the orig.crank.
Someone may have turned down the rearmain sealing journal. What crank are you using in that motor ? You said it's a 78 block, are you using a 28 oz crank too ?
Yes,the crank is orig.to the block.It's a pretty stout engine,and never leaked before.He installed a trans and the front seal was bad,replaced that,and got the seal to stop leaking trans fluid all over the place,and within 10 minutes,the engine starts leaking oil.I went and helped him pull the engine,and re-did the seal,and within 20 minutes it starts leaking oil again.There are some diagonal markings on the snout,but are getting light.I just cant figure out why now all of a sudden it leaks.Might have been better off putting up with the leaky trans.lol
I'm leaning towards that the crank snout is worn beyond stock and will need sleeved,or a new crank all-together.
Engine is pulled AGAIN ! All flexplate bolts were dry, galley plugs were dry. No oil around crank snout. Only oil present was on the lip of the oil pan. Fingers crossed it's the oil pan gasket and not the seal. Will know more today when I pull the pan off.
Them oil pans (aftermarket) are sons of guns to seal! After mine is on and is set, I run atv around back flange as best as I can. Would be nice to have real long skinny fingers to get sealant in there, Good Luck!
Looked at it today only places that seam wet is the gasket area of the oil pan and the "dead" hole in the crank end.
Is it a factory pan?? The chrome and aftermarket pans can be next to impossible to seal sometimes. I've had lots of them over the years on all different engines. We wont even install an aftermarket oil pan anymore. IF its factory the old cork and end seals work fine. Dont use any sealant on the cork. A light dusting of gasket glue is all you need to hold it in place. Just a dab of silicone in the corners where the cork meets the end seals. Dont use silicone on the end seals. Thats about all I do for old school oil pans. Hope you get her sealed up.
It's an aftermarket pan that came with a 1 pc.rubber gasket.I had trouble years ago with a chrome 302 front sump aftermarket pan.NO amount of sealer would stop that thing from leaking.Ended up pitching it in the trash.If Darrel doesn't get it buttoned up by the weekend,I'll be making a trip to give him a hand.
I kind of suspected that. The aftermarket ones have a nasty habit of leaking at the corners. Like I said I wouldnt install one on a customers car. I'd try a factory pan.
