Thanks i really put a lot of work on it and it has been my first big car project and i hope i am very happy with it
I think you will be. It doesnt take a ton of HP to get these little cars moving. Your motor should be nice and torque e. I think you did a fine job of matching components to make a nice driver. If you want big HP numbers your build has to take a totally different direction. Put some sort of a trac loc/locker in the rear and a set of 3:55's max. is about all I would do for your engine.
i am going to put true duals with glass packs on it i hope it gives it the right sound i want. do you guys have any advice on what kind of glass pack i like loud rumbley engines also is it ok to start my car wit 88400 shorties for a small amount of time
This will get me in trouble with a lot of people I am afraid but stay away from the Flow Masters. I like the Hooker Aero-Chambers. Lots of people like the Magnoflow. Flows might sound OK but they don't flow that great. clint
I have always liked a good turbo-style muffler ( I am showing my age ... they were meant for Turbo Corvairs IIRC). Glasspacks start OK, and age rather quickly as the fiberglass gets burnt up.... they get loud and obnoxious. There are a lot of good performance mufflers out there that will sound good and give a long service life. A lot of guys post audio clips online so you can see what you like.... YouTube.
Because they have it on the side that you need. In your other thread I told you to do the same thing that Bryant said, good to know that my idea was right!
While it is true that they dont flow as high as the others when dynoed they made more HP than glasspacks. Theres an article that some 5.0 magazine did where they actually tested all types of mufflers. So you can ether go by flow numbers or actual rwhp numbers. I personally love turbo mufflers. You get the best of both worlds nice crushing sound, great WOT sound due to its chamber design.
you can use a digital back dial timing light(beg , borrow or purchase ) to check and adjust your timing. as for exhaust, any strait true more or less will give you that glass pack sound. I have 3 inch o.d. pipes,6901 headers,X-pipe cross-over with magna-flow SS, and they crackel(sound) like glass packs but not as loud,when I gun the engine.
get a set of magnaflow magnapack mufflers for a newer model mustang, straight through design with a real "throaty" sound.
This information is straight from the 1969-1976 Chilton's auto repair manual. It says a 1969 302 engine has 210 hp. @4400 rpm and 295 ft. lbs. of torque @2400 rpm. Those numbers did drop drastically after 1970 mainly due to compression dropping from 9.5 to 8.5 to1, and those lovable smog heads. I have one of those 141 hp. 302s in my '73 Maverick. I had a '68 Fairlane with a 302 2v years back, and I can remember it having a little more punch than the much lighter Maverick that I have now.
I disagree. There is no 'limit' on stock heads. Yes, they are weak, but you can't say they are only good for 'x' amount of power no matter what you do to everything else. I think that stock heads with a good combo of all the other significant parts should be capable of one hp per cubic inch. Remember, Shelby did 306 hp with a 289 on stock 289 heads. They were HiPo heads, but that didn't mean anything but different combustion chambers and adjustable valves. The sizes/volumes were the same as any other 289. And yes, the HP ratings were gross. They measured an engine with open exhaust and absolutely no accessories. So they could be high compared to your individual combo depending on what accessories you have.
A stock 77 351w was a dog as 351s go. Low compression and severely retarded cam timing, not to mention the first year of the 'one size fits all' small block Ford heads that sucked to high heaven. I'd venture a guess at 150 hp on that. However, there is plenty of potential in any 351... Also, exactly what intake is being used with the 4v carb is just as important, if not more important than carb size. So 600 Holley doesn't mean much without other supporting info like intake brand/style and exhaust mods.
You have 306 cubic inches, that in 'PERFECT' tune, probably puts 230 hp to the flywheel, assuming water pump, mechanical fan, alternator, aftermarket mufflers, and possibly power steering pump. My .02... a guess. Worth exactly what you paid for it... a dyno session is way more expensive, but highly accurate! Speaking of dynos.... Your rear wheel hp will be less than flywheel hp. The rule of thumb is subtract 20% from the flywheel figure if you have an auto trans, 15% if you have a manual tranny. Also, rear gear ratios that are outside the 2.50:1 to 3.50:1 range generally lower the measured hp at the rear wheels, even if the car is made quicker by their install. (I have no idea why this is, but it just is.)
