The cable from the battery goes front side, all the wire with the link tabs too. on the rear the cable to the starter
Positive battery cable and all the smaller wires currently on the rear post go on front post. Only the starter cable goes on the rear post, where you currently have multiple wires. The red/blue wire with the black boot goes on the terminal marked "S"... The other booted wire goes on the remaining small terminal. I can't quite tell, but it appears the red/blue wire is on the "I" terminal. Edit: Nevermind, that pic blows up huge and it appears the starter activation wire (red/blue) is in the right place.
I switched the cables but nothing is still happening I jumped the car again but as soon as I took the jumper cables off the engine cut off.
#1- change the batterry out (borrow) and eliminate that possibility of a dead cell or broken batt. post... #2- clean your batt. terminals/clamps with 80 grit sandpaper. #3- clean your ground attachment points/ and cable lug. #4- check voltage on batt. positive to your ground point on the eng. block and move the the ground cable and see if there is a fluctuation in the voltage...... that last check happen to my car !!!! bad ground cable caused to much resistance and was getting only 9 volts. then I would move/gigle the ground cable the voltage went back to 12 volts..... good luck.... -mel-
Before you replace the battery, take it somewhere and have it tested. It is always a good idea to have the parts tested before replacing so you don't wast your time and money just replacing parts that don't need it.
i got a new battery and the car is starting and running good, for now. but now the alternator light is on even though i just replaced the alternator about 2 weeks ago
I've seen regulators needing about 3000 engine rpms to kick in to start charging the battery. If the regulator doesn't kick in then the battery will eventually die. This is when an ammeter comes in handy.
My alternator light turn out to be the voltage regulator wires. The regulator and the alternator tested fine.
this sounds like a wireing problem. ive seen the wires between the alt and regulator go bad and cause this exact problem. make sure they are attached to the alt correctly and make sure they all are in good condition. you my need to use an ohm meter to make sure they are good.
I had a similar problem with my mustang right after I got it. It turned out to be wired for a voltmeter, and the previous owner replaced the dash with an ameter dash. Couple of cuts & splices, and good to go.
I think that is the case here because the alternator light goes off when the rpms start getting higher
