In one of the pictures, where i show the crank, take a closer look to the arrows on the rods, i was shocked, fortunately there was no damage to the crank.
Sorry for taking that much time to post again, but i've really busy. so, to continue, check the inscriptions on the block, supose it's the part code, but not sure.
Here's the cylinder polishing, it was a very quick and painless process, the cylinders were in great shape.
not bad time to shave the inner fenders down...... and just what i saw the master cylinder looks like it leaks a little bit. great looking mav btw i wish mine was at this point
Once the pistons were clean, i pre-assembled them so that i wouldn't lose their mates. Then I put a little white grease on the rods so they would have no friction. The result makes a big difference compared with what I found at first.
budget doesn't allow me to do that at this time, future plans maybe? i noticed the leak and its fixed now, thanks!
Here's how the block looked after I painted it red. Next picture shows the water seals I replaced, which by the way were not easy to come by, as all the "universal" kits for 289, 302, and 351 didn't fit. Next is the intake manifold which I also painted in red. Then the engine already taking form, with the water pump, damper, thermostat, distributor, gas pump, oil pump, oil pan and heads installed.
Here's the engine bay, i decided to give it a quick and small makeover, since my priority wasn't that. I painted the shock towers gray to match the other colors on the engine, fixed the master cylinder and painted it silver, and cleaned the steering box and also painted it silver.
Here's the engine in place, still a lot hoses, wires, coil, radiator, and carburator to go. :bananaman
That was the #4 main cap not the rods. And it will fit either way as long as you're not running it like that. No worry about the crank being damaged from that, even if you torqued it down, the bearing would cushion the crank journal and even might run that way as long as the mismatch wasn't severe, the bearing would eventually wear-in (again, as long as the mismatch isn't severe)
yep, sorry about that, but i didn't know the right word for that part in english. maybe i'm wrong but i know that the rods and the caps are cut together in in symmetrical shapes that aren't necessarily flat, so if you put them together in a different way they won't fit, thus changing the form of the crank and damaging it even if the bearing is new. am i wrong?
No, you are not wrong. Even the main caps when put on backwards can be out of shape and off-center enough to rub, lock up or damage parts. that is why new caps have to be fitted by milling and line boring.
Just bolting them together and torquing it down isn't going to damage anything, other than crushing part of the bearing, like I said before, running it that way would depend on how long it was run and how severe the mismatch was. I built a 390 once that had the caps mixed at the factory so that the numbers didn't jive with their actual line bored position in the block, I ran is that way for a few days as such, but it didn't damage the crank nor the caps. We had to pull it out for another problem and on reasembly, that's when we figured out something wasn't quite right with the caps.
Hey thanks! it was a very quick job, hopefully in the future i will find time to do a close detailing of every aspect of the car. The car's original color was gray.
