These photos are what I used to have. It looked like a bird nest in there. Also shown are how I modified my EGR valve and got rid of lots of ugly stuff.
Modifying EGR valve spacer And here's how I modified the EGR valve so I'd still have the right plate to attach the carb. I eventually did away with the aluminum two plate cover referred to and just sealed it up like shown in one of the pics above
wow, great pictures and break down, im trying to figure out where the two lines on the bottom of carb would go cause i dont have that water inlet. and on mine there never was a line running to the canister from that 3 port vacuum thingamagiger. there is one there but it looks like its running along the fire wall and down to the trans. ? why did you switch to the 2b carb? and how is it. my dad gave me this car and he asked me to keep it all original but it looks like there's thing that need to be upgraded like the carb. i spoke to a guy down here who said he had a 74 mav 200 and the carb gave him issues to. so why did u make the switch?
I'd always heard the carter carb just didn't supply enough fuel. Mines a "progressive" two barrel and I just followed the tech article about putting a 2bbl on. Same parts they recommend, same vendors, etc. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=36020 Between that and switching to a Pertronix ignition the engine performed noticeably better. When I went through the vaccum line stuff like you are I posted some questions in the link above but can't find out what page they were on since it's a pretty long thread. I remember coming away with these insights knowing I'd be running the bare minimum vacuum lines with the carb suggested (electric choke): If you've got a standard, and no heater or a/c the only vacuum line you need is to the distributor. If you've got an automatic (mine's a C4), you'll need a vacuum line for the tranny. (That "T" off the firewall in one of my pics feeds the shortest metal line going to my tranny. and the direct one off the 3 stemmed thingamagigger (called a manifold) serves the longest metal tranny line)---don't get me trying to describe what it does....I still don't understand automatic transmissions). If you've got Heat and/or AC you'll also need a vacuum line to run your heater/ac controls. Once I understood that, I got rid of and plugged off every other one that went to other vacuum manifolds, "T-adapters", splitters, etc. That's how I was left with that Hydra looking thing on top of the water pump that that 3 plugged hoses. It got rid of the EGR do-hickey and the second vaccum line that ran to the port closest to the body of the distributor. Remember---plug any exposed vacuum port! I did notice on your second picture you have the port open that is closest to the distributor. I think you can plug that one as you're probably introducing a vacuum leak. I'm going to play with one of the photos you supplied and see if I can help make sense of it. Anybody out there that sees an error in my thinking please chime up. That's the way we learn.
i will have to look into maybe going to the 2bbl. the car is an auto and it does have a heater. now in the picture of mine that you added text to you said to remove the line that i have connected wrong, the one that i have coming from the fire wall to the carb, now i notice that if i cap that line off at the carb there is fuel there or fuel will accumulate there, that is if i pull the cap off. i've been trying to find something that will tell me what these lines are on the carb and the manuel does not say what they are. what im trying to say if i cap it will it hurt the carb or anything else? cause i have NO idea what that vacuum line is at the bottom of that carb. sorry to have so many ? but i cant find much on the web and u seem to be the only person that is giving me answers/helping me out. thanks again, your help is REALLY appreciated.
See if you can identify what model carb you have. I have some shop manuals that have photos I could scan and send you. We'll get there---don't give up on the original carb yet, it may perform better than we're both thinking it will. In the meantime, check out this carb page: It may clear some things up. http://1bad6t.com/Maverick/repair/fuel_system_02.html And save this one to your favorites----detail detail detail!--- http://1bad6t.com/Maverick/repair/repair_index.html
sorry this took so long its a carter yf 1bbl. i did move the line around will need to post picture but its still making that noise inside the dash. not sure how to make that noise stop.
well it looks like that noise fixed itself thank God. Car is running ok runs better in the cold now. But in the warm weather it runs rough any ideas why?
