Hood Latch rebuild

Discussion in 'Technical' started by zorares, Jun 21, 2011.

  1. zorares

    zorares Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2010
    Messages:
    329
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    50
    Location:
    Midlothian, Texas
    Vehicle:
    1973 Ford Maverick
    OK, last night I pulled the hood latch off as it was really sticking. I sat at the table with my daughter (my helper), some tools and 2 cans of WD40 and we proceeded to tear the latch apart. First thing we discovered is we need a better hand cleanser. After about 30 minutes of scrapping dirt/oil/whoknowswhat off of the latch, I discovered that I couldn't get to the inner works of the latch. There are two bolts/pins that I couldn't get apart. Am I not supposed to get in there? Seems to be a lot of rust on the springs and stuff so I thought it would be good to clean them up, or should I just spray them with the WD40 and put it all back together?

    Also, the exterior parts I'm going to tread with POR-15 so that it'll look nice and have some rust protection. Good idea?

    Hmmm...it would help if I could spell HOOD.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2011
  2. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2004
    Messages:
    6,517
    Likes Received:
    959
    Trophy Points:
    426
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    70 Maverick Grabber, 72 Maverick Grabber Restomod
    I have had good success by soaking them in WD40 - not spraying - soaking. You can buy a gallon can of WD40 at any big "man" store for about $15. An old kitchen pot with a lid makes a great soaking tank for smaller parts. Leave it soak and once or twice a day take it out and work the latch several times to get it freed up. Number of days soaking will depend on how rusty and gunked up it is.

    :tiphat:
     
  3. zorares

    zorares Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2010
    Messages:
    329
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    50
    Location:
    Midlothian, Texas
    Vehicle:
    1973 Ford Maverick
    My wife is going to love me! :dancing:
     
  4. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2004
    Messages:
    6,517
    Likes Received:
    959
    Trophy Points:
    426
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    70 Maverick Grabber, 72 Maverick Grabber Restomod
    A stop at the Goodwill store for an old pot is a much better choice than the wife's cookware ......... :rofl2:
     
  5. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2008
    Messages:
    8,090
    Likes Received:
    979
    Trophy Points:
    498
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    GA
    Vehicle:
    '74 Maverick 302 5-Speed.'60 Falcon V8. '63.5 Falcon HT
  6. zorares

    zorares Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2010
    Messages:
    329
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    50
    Location:
    Midlothian, Texas
    Vehicle:
    1973 Ford Maverick
    OK, that's just cool! :yahoo: wonder if my in-laws would let me borrow their pool for the weekend and just treat the whole car.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2011
  7. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2008
    Messages:
    8,090
    Likes Received:
    979
    Trophy Points:
    498
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    GA
    Vehicle:
    '74 Maverick 302 5-Speed.'60 Falcon V8. '63.5 Falcon HT
    Need an arc welder instead of batter charger. You could dig a big hole in the backyard and line it with plastic. :yup:
     
  8. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

    Joined:
    May 3, 2004
    Messages:
    4,858
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Seattle area
    Vehicle:
    1966 Mustang, 1972, 73, 73 and 73 Mavericks
    No matter how you get it clean you should lubricate the moving parts with a good lubricant. WD40 is not a lubricant - it is a water displacer and it dries leaving no protection or lubrication. You can get spray silicone lube or just use ATF - both have corrosion inhibitors to prtect the parts from rust.

    Just a note for future rederence: ATF and kerosine 50/50 makes an excellent penetrating oil/degreaser and leaves behind a good lubricant that retards any rust formation.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2011
  9. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2002
    Messages:
    16,931
    Likes Received:
    215
    Trophy Points:
    347
    Location:
    Parts Unknown......
    Vehicle:
    3 Grabbers
    I bought some stuff, Evap-o-rust...you dip the parts, and let them soak over night, and it actually works. It was cheap, $9.99 for a decent sized jug.
     
  10. Jsarnold

    Jsarnold Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2008
    Messages:
    2,842
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    102
    Location:
    Raleigh, North Carolina
    Vehicle:
    '72 Sprint
    X2!!! Love my rust bucket!! Got a big plastic tub at Ace Hardware for mine. Great way to de-rust steel wheels or anything you can fit in the bucket.

    One tip: My battery charger wouldn't put out enough amps, I think because it wasn't getting any voltage back and thought it was working on a really dead battery. Solution was to connect the electrodes to a battery and put the charger on the battery. :thumbs2:

     

Share This Page