Will you have a high minimum/no usage charge for the additional meter? Might be expensive if you're not in the garage a lot.
I don't believe so, no. My house electric bill is rarely over $40. So, I'm guessing that means I don't have a minimum charge. Also, it IS wired for a 220 dryer on the inside and works fine. I was wondering if I could do get some of the #10 wire for 220, and add it to the slot already wired for the dryer. That way I could only use one at a time. Like if I'm using the air compressor, not use the dryer, and etc. Would that work?
You can do that if the compressor's current draw doesn't exceed the dryer circuit rating. I do that now for my 220 volt welder, tapped into the 50 amp electric dutch oven circuit. Girl friend doesn't cook anyhow...
You need a Professional eletrician to look your wiring over,,, sorta like driving a 40 year old Maverick 120 mph with orginial tires and manual drum brakes! only cause I care,,,
I agree. It would be easy for several of us on here, with Electrical experience and knowledge, to make a variety of recommendations on how to upgrade your electrical power service, but it's really better to get guidance from a local professional. This doesn't mean that you will not be able to do most of the work yourself and still do it for a reasonable price. I'm not familier with your local electrical codes, but you might be able to avoid adding an additional meter, and just run new parrallel power feeds (wires) to a new sub-panel, and properly (load size/ground/conduit) for a 220 circuit breaker, for your air compressor's amerage rating. This way both panels are metered with your existing meter. If there is a large distance between your existing fuse panel, and your garage, most of the cost of electrical upgrades typically is with long wire runs of larger AWG size wire. If it is a short distance, that will make it cheaper to do. I'm assuming you do not want to go with the lower duty 120vac air compressor. For serious air compressor work, 220 is the way to go.
Yeah, I seriously need to have the 220 compressors. I will be doing a LOT of sandblasting within the next few weeks. You said as long it was hooked up to the appropriate fuses it would work. The dryer line is hooked up to (2) 30 amp fuses. Will that work for this air compressor? http://www.homedepot.com/Husky/h_d1...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Says it pushes 15 amps.
Here's my 2cents You want to hear can it be done? from what I've seen yes it can be done using that box. Tether a wire over to the garage from the dryer area. When you not using the dryer plug in the compressor and the 2 30 amp fuses should hold. With that having been said; the bottom line is any other action other then replacing the box is going to venture extreme risk. Would I risk burning my house down so I can run a 220 compressor! Hell No! I spent the money for peace of mind, 1200 dollars later I had an awesome oversized breakbox and 220 in my garage.(you can probably do it for half that) -Side Note- the fuse/breaker box MUST BE REPLACED if you ever have your centeral heating/cooling updated. All fuse boxes must have a main shut off. So if you replace it now you won't have to worry about it later.
The start-up amps will be closer to 20 amps and it will never keep up with a sand-blaster. My compressor puts out 50% more CFM at 90 PSI and I have to wait for the compressor to catch up. You might get 10 -12 minutes of blasting done before you have to stop and wait for the air to build back up; make sure you have something else to do while you wait.
I don't have central heating or cooling. In the summer I use a 110 box fan. Winter time comes around, I fire up the old faithful wood stove. As for Paul, yeah, lol, I have PLENTY to do while waiting on the tank to refill. Got 3 motors to get ready for pulling, and everything else in between.
