Ok, so usually when people have starter problems its the starter staying engaged after the key is turned off. Mine shuts off then, but only then. Engine cranks right up and starter keeps going until I shut it down. I'm 99% sure that's what its doing anyways. It sounds like it, and if I put a socket extension on the starter while the engine is running I can feel a high frequency vibration, that I don't get from the block or bell. Here's some background. -Just pulled the engine for detail and trans swap (c4 to T5) and cleaned up all the wiring (probably the source of my problem). No manual pedals in at the moment so the trans is just sitting in neutral with the clutch fork not hooked up to anything. -Swapped to a late model starter with its own noid, wired correctly as per the how to thread on here by Scooper. 4ga wire to the hot side of the noid, smaller post to the switched side. The starter was on my previous Mav and worked fine for the dozen or so starts I used it then it sat on a shelf for about a year. -Noid is the same one that was on the car before. Disconnected the switched side and hit the key and it clicks and releases exactly as its supposed to. -Moved battery to trunk. Battery is grounded via bumper mount, engine block is grounded to frame rail on passenger side. Any ideas? I'd like to have the engine squared away before I setup the manual pedals.
Does the starter start to crank as soon as the key is turned to the on position? If so you have the small wires on the starter relay reversed.
we had that problem on mashoris starter. it was the starter it self. the plunger in the solinoid on the start would stick.
If the engine cranks as soon as the switch is in the on position then it is reversed - THAT is the test...........
I would remove the starter from the car, ground it with some jumper cables, and begin by doing the test that Paul suggested, and let us know how it is acting mechanically, and electrically. 1. Does it then engage with the key in just the "run" position, before you turn the key all the way to "start" position? 2. Is the starter acting the same disconnected from the car?
1. It doesn't engage in run. That's the weird part, it just stays on in run after its been started. Now that I think about it, wouldn't that mean it has to be the starter and not anything in the ignition/starter circuit?
It could mean that your battery isn't fully charged. Starter solenoids will stick open when the battery charge is low.
Relocating the battery to the trunk can cause a voltage drop in the circuit, which will cause the starter solinoid to stick as well. Make sure the battery is fully charged and all connections are clean and tight. Be certain you re getting full battery voltage at the starter/solinoid. Useing too small a cable will do this as well. Go overkill here and use 0 guage battery cable for the positive and the ground. Good luck!!!
Those are actually Scooper's diagrams from his how to thread. I've got an Optima Red top, so in a little bit here I hook that up and see if an extra 400CA helps.
Changed to a fully charged red top. No change. Pulled the wire fromthe switched side of the solenoid after start. No change.
Problem solved. After two hours of trial and error with every electrical connection under the hood, a battery swap, and a solenoid swap, I came to the conclusion that for once my wiring job was spot on. So I cracked a beer and brainstormed (it works better that way I promise). Figured it had to be mechanical. Turns out when you use a block from ~73, a bellhousing from 96, a starter from ???? and an aftermarket flywheel made by Jegs in a tooth count and imbalance combo never produced by Ford, everything doesn't necessarily want to play nice. The starter was approximately 3/8" engaged at rest. The starter wasn't running with the engine, it was being spun by the engine. Tail wagging the dog. Shimmed it and its good to go. Now I just need to order a more permanent shim.