I know I asked this before or simply discussed it, but let me ask one more time. My "77" Maverick has the original 250 6 "popper"., now before everyone starts suggesting to drop in the 302, I truly understand the bennies of the swap and did a similar in a Pinto I had, but........I am going to keep this "77" Mav. as original as I can (other than upgrades) and want to keep the 250 in her. I think it would be pretty cool to lift the hood at some shows and get the "Wow" factore when you see the "tricked out", 6. So, received tons of info and there are some great sites for "beefing" up the 250....alot of "bolt ons" which one can do without tearing down the motor, which may happen at some time. My question is: If I install: Headers, Carberation (either a 4bl or the "reall, really" cool looking Tri-power (single carb) kit. Do I need to change the cam with those installations? Again, not going to race her, just looking for a little better sound, some performance improvements and again the "hey that's neat" look. Thanks.
as any...performance upgrade...the cam, head(s), intake, exhaust and carb need to be a match. anyone of thoes not happy you could be building a...SLUG. they call the intake on a 250 a...TURD...for a reason. JMO...Frank
Well, I understand the "match" so I guess the question is; when do you have to "match" the changes, in other words a simple installation of headers would not require any cam change, a simple installation of ignition would not require any cam change.....an upgrade from the single bl. carb to a dual bl. carb would not require a cam change....yet you would see some improvement. So, when does the matching take place., how much of upgrades require or should take you into the cam and other head work...not trying to be difficult here but had this discussion at the card game last night.....when does any bolt on upgrades require engine work (interior), how much upgrades...your matching is understood and agreed upon, but there are simple bolt ons that don't require the other upgrades.....and as for the "TURD" , going to "google" TURD and see if any reference to the 250 comes up, thanks.
Everything you talked about will be an improvement, but some so small people feel it's not worth it. I read that you can have the intake bored out so it can handle more air but then again it's the cost versas the gain. I cleaned up my six and most people LIKE it,i live in GM country and at a show last Sat out of 250 cars I got a TOP FIFTY award. I put a Pertronix in first thing and have a 2-barrel on the shelf that I'm thinking about but I get 24 MPG now so I will have to think some more on it. Sixes are COOL. Rick
I like you live in "GM Country" and actuall worked at the plant for a little over 5 years (Lordstown Ohio - Home of the Vega)., like all cars but for some reason have had and continue to own Ford/Mercury...I like the photo of your six and would be interested in knowing exactly what all your upgrades were, where you started and so on. Again, I am keeping the six in this car...it runs strong, the car is all original, got it from the original owner, it's not molested...going to keep her that way, thanks.
Hey 71gold, I posted this comment that I am going to inform of on the Tech Forum and got some feedback, but since I have you on line now......just came back from Summit Racing, its about 45 miles from my home. Mav drove great, cruisen at 65 to 70 MPH, no noise nothing.......pulled into Summit when I placed her in park the "Engine" light came on. This model only had Seat Belt, Engine and Alt. lights. Anyway at high RPM NO LIGHT, at Idle NO LIGHT, at Idle under load (in gear) LIGHT. My first thought was oil pressure.......no noise no, no lifter nois....got it home checked all fluids all are topped off.....let it sit...went out to start her NO LIGHT. You guess....is the 6 popper getting tired (79K), or is the sending unit acting up. I really want to get through the summer before I start tearing her down....whats your guess...thanks.
Rick where did you get that valve cover? All of the chrome 6cyl valve covers Ive seen have the twist in oil fill caps in the front not in the rear as they should be for our cars. GREAT PIC of your engine. Thats my next area to tackle on mine also. Im leaving in the 6 also ...
I took the original cover to the chromer when I had the engine out this past winter. Cost me $130 but like you say it's the right one for the engine.
I would save up for the aluminum head. That will give you more power than all the bolt in type stuff you can do. They also sell turbo kits you know http://ststurbo.com/
Poke around on Fordsix.com. They will inform you on all the go you are willing to spend, and have charts to suggested combos and dyno proven results. You will see gains for header/exhaust upgrades, but to do the carb upgrade right, you need to pull the head and have it milled for direct mount. Adapters exist, but rob you of hp, it's documented on the site. Also, you will have hood clearance issues with the carb adapters on the 250 I6 in a Mav. 4V is too big unless you have internals, go with an autolite 2v w/ 1.08 venturis. Again, you need flow work in order to benefit from a bigger 1.21 or 350 Holley. Since you have to pull the head for the carb anyway, slap the cam in while your at it, and have the head milled .050" to make up for the lousy 8.0:1 C/R and the thicker aftermarket gaskets. Recurve your duraspark 2 with a 925 Mr Gasket kit and advance your static timing upwards of 15 degrees if you run 93 octane. If you search on the forum, you'll see some of my pic links to my old turboed 250. Good luck
if you like six cylinders go with the 300 cubic inch six,2 cubic inches less than a 302 and lots of torque ,put a clifford intake on it 2 or small four barrel header and a mild cam ,you would be impressed how it runs
