I just got a call from my mechanic... seems my 5.0 with an auto C4 was advanced by 26 degrees. He was surprised. But as I research, it sounds as if this is the regular for getting more ponies. Is this true? I'm running 1993 HO Roller Cam 302 Edelbrock Aluminum Performer Heads COMP Cam Xtreme Energy XE266HR Rebuilt C4 from Monster Trans Boss Hog 2300-2800 Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap Dougs Headers
the timing has to be within specs, too much advance and you loose power as well as its hard on your engine. Not enough advance and its the same thing.
You be better of around 12 degrees base timing, at idle, vacuum advance disconnected. Your max advance with vacuum hooked up and above 3000 rpm should be 28-32 or so depending on your exact setup and distribuor.
Right on. I think I'll let him shoot it at stock for now. We are working out some issues with the motor and figure we should start from baseline. Thanks!
You dont have a stock cam so stock timing setting may not idle well or make good power. Stock is usually about 6 degrees. Go for atleast 8-10. 12 wouldnt give you any issues except maybe bring you idel up a little from where it was at before you set the timing, then you just turn the idle back down a bit. good luck with it.
A ballpark of 36-38 degrees total advance USUALLY yields the best performance. Unless you are certain of how many degrees advance your particular distributor has, setting the total timing is the best method and let the intial fall where it may. 26 degrees initial is ALOT. There is always the possiblity of a slipped or incorrect balancer too. You would have to bring #1 to TDC and verify that the balancer timing mark is lined up with the pointer.
26 initial is WAY too far advanced, 26 total is WAY too retarded. Need to find out which it is before going further.
Tell that to MY dad. I just fixed my sisters truck that my dad put in the 390 a couple months ago. Its been a dog ever since. I get the light on it and timing is set at six, just like he read in the book. I bump it up to 12 twelve and set the points with the dwell meter instead of the gap gauge cause the distributor lobes are uneven and its a whole new beast. To the original poster, checking the balancer that it didnt slip is a great suggestion. Just last months my brother ballancer completely let go. And make sure yout mechanic understands that the engine is NOT stock so STOCK settings dont apply.
So 8-12 initial with my cam? (idle) I think 26 was the initial. I was told that the balancer didn't have the mark on the right spot. He scoped it and marked it using cylinder 1 TDC. Thanks for reminding me about the cam... I should have known that stock didn't apply, but it's been a journey getting this figured out... I'm almost thinking i could reset the timing myself once i get her back from the shop. Not rocket science, but I'm wondering if I would need to adjust mixture on the carb or if it would be as easy as adjusting the idle...
If the balancer slipped you should replace it with a new one before it really comes apart. At the least it will probably take out the timing cover or cause some real damage if it shatters after the rubber ring completely craps out. Just set the initial timing at 10 and forget about it. Dosnt sound lik eyou are racing it or anything but even a stock cam runs good at 10 so an aftermarket one should be set at atleast that.
Replace those points with an electronic unit and you'll find it even easier to live with. Starting it on cold mornings will be like night and day. But is is refreshing to see someone who knows the proper way to set points...........doing it with a dwell meter. Setting The gap is only the initial adjustment
I had my sister order a pertronix kit. I'll be putting it in soon but they needed the truck running good asap to get it up the hills to some VW camping gathering. You have to use a dwell meter on these old cars/trucks. Even if you get a reman disttributor from the parts store the lobes on it are still old and usually uneven by now.
The lobes don't have anything to do with having to use a dwell meter, this was a requirement to get any set of points set correctly "back in the day" Look in the older repair manuals and they all list dwell settings for points.
