Ok so, I've got my transmission lines taken care of for now. Bought some Gate 400 psi rubber hose, put triple hose clamps on each side and theres no leaks. I just got finished driving it and it worked fine except it would not go passed 65mph. It would shake and die like its not getting fuel and the rpms would stay at 3200 and go no more. I know I havent connected any of my vacuum hoses besides my modulator to intake. Everything else is plugged. Any idea of what could be causing this? I was thinking maybe something with the carb or modulator needs to be adjusted to change gears quicker. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
No when I plugged it into the spark port it ran like crap. It seemed like it was running off 2 cylinders. Also I found a piece of rubber inside my modulator hose that would restrict the vacuum. Haven't tested it since last time.
You need the vacuum advance hooked up so it will advance the timing at a higher rpm to run right. Is your new hose safe for ATF fluid? PSI aint saying nothing about the specs other than the psi rating.
All my hoses are brand new that I've used for the vacuum advanced. They all seem to run crappy when connected. I have a brand new msd distributor and brand new carb.
Hello, lets kept it simple, you need air,fuel and spark. 1. what kind of fuel pump, filter(is it clean) and size line 2. gives us your complete spark set-up, dizzy,coil,wires,plugs and gap 3. air filter,(clean) 4 dose the MSD have chip in it
I'm not sure what the fuel pump is. It's brand new, fuel filter is new, the line was blown out and is the original one, new rubber hoses on it, new fuel tank, new sending unit, not sure if the msd 8479 has a chip it's electric and has a msd 5520 ignition that controls it. Coil is an msd blaster 2, motorsport spark plugs are new and not gapped. Air filter is new. I have some New wires and there 8mm cheap brand for now.
Ok timing might be dead on at idle but you have to have the vacuum advance on the distributor for the car to run right at hight rpms. If the distributor has a vaccum canister on it, it was made to run with it. First things first, which carburetor are you using the 2100 or the Motorcraft 2150?... ah really it doesnt matter which one you have they have the same metered vacuum port location. But it is to prove the point that there are more then one Motorcraft 2V carburetor. Next which vacuum port on the carburetor are you using? Does it have vacuum at idle? If it does then you are using the wrong port. For most of the 2V ford carburetors the metered vacuum port for the distributor is in front of the thermatic choke housing. Here is a picture of a 2150 carburetor the metered distributor line is the one going out the side of the carburetor too the left side of the engine. (incidentally this is on a AMC 4.2L the 2100 and 2150 carbs are common replacements to the Carter 2V carburetors that you can no longer get parts for on AMC engines) Now if something is wrong and all of your vacuum ports have vacuum at idle then you can get a timed vacuum valve for the distributor. Now if you dont understand why we are all saying it is the vaccum of the distributor, and all the questions i am asking on metering and timing of the vacuum then the best explanation is this. The vacuum advance of the distributor is kicked on at a certain RPM, if you put full vacuum on the distributor at idle then it will advance it too soon and it will run like crap. If you dont put it on, it will fall off on the top end and run like crap. Have fun and please let me know if this helped
If you didnt gap the new plugs before install...Take em back out and gap em to .035. Bad plug gap will make the car run poorly as well as insufficient timeing.
