Need help guys. T-5 into 70 model

Forgot to mention, you have to extend (elongate) wollerout --- the trans mount holes in the C4 xmember, there is enough room for it though.

 

I fabbed mine about how igoback70 did. Bolt it in place, cut, weld, weld, weld...
As for the clutch setup I used a quadrant adapter from Mustang Steve. It just welds on to the top of the clutch pedal. It does require that you clearance the "floor" of the cowl slightly. Then you'll need a firewall reinforcement plate/block. I built mine out of angle iron. Last is an adjustable cable. I used a longer than standard one to get away from the headers. Can't remember the part number though.

 

Where good sir did you aquire said cable. ( lemme git dem digits ) lol. I'm running a stock 87 stang cable, i have seen someone's Mav on here with the cable running to the front of the motor and then back to bell, i'm bettin it was yours i saw ( PERFECT ! )

 

when we put the T-5 in Earls car ('70) we didn't have to cut out the tunnel. we used one of my...T-5 crossmembers....and his stock driveshaft (uncut).

 

Can you post a pic of the motor ( side view ) ? I would like to see how it sits in relation to how mine sits.

 

This is the best side pic i have on this pc.

 

On engine transplants, I used a level on the top of the intake manifold to locate motor mounts.

 

The Tunnel top can be welded ( fabbed back into place ) once the motor with trans is installed at the level you want. When i welded mine back in i just kept about a half inch clearence from tunnel top to trans. Again, there may be better ways to do it, this is just the way i went with.

 

I cut and raised mine as well and fabricated a crossmember. This was in 1999 and no one I knew at the time had any Maverick modification info. I just tried to keep the same driveline angle and get the headers off of the ground. I like the way Earl's crossmember looks and I would have preferred not to cut the tunnel but it works and what's done is done.

 

All I had to do was dent in the bracing on the tunnel on the bottom side. No cutting was necessary, except for the shifter hole.

 

Is this your car in the picture ? When i clicked on it --- it sure looks like the tunnel reinforcement brace has been cut at the top section.

 

now is this for 69 1/2 and 70 only? as far as raising the trans tunnel? or is this for all years because i am in the middle of doing the t5 swap in my 73 and this is the first i have read of this.

 

Both cars i did this where 1970 models, not sure but i think the tunnel on years up to 75 are the same on two door models.

This is what i know as fact : A motor and trans of any combination should sit level in any car you are building, have you seen a production model come out with the cooling fan aimed up towards the hood ?

On both Mavericks that i have done --- with the motor level, not only is the tunnel reinforcement a issue as far as clearence but the top corners of the T-5 hit the tunnel as well.

You can do 1 of 3 things here,

1 you can get a BFH and goto town on the tunnel.

2 you can lower the cross member and tweek the heck out of the motor mounts, when i did my first 1 the tunnel was uncut and i almost had to make the flywheel touch the concrete before the trans even thought about having enough room to go in.

3 you can cut the tunnel, keep the driveline angle correct and go from there.

 

Yeah got another d**n problem now. So my bell housing is about half an inch from the motor. Cant seem to get the trans closer and my throw out bearin barely make contact with my clutch. Bout ready to burn this one down

 

is the...pilot bushing...the correct size?