ok lets build a 351 w FOR THE STREET

I suggest you build your engine with torque in mind. Low-end torque is more fun on the street than high-RPM power anyway first of all. Done right, a 351w with good compression and the right cam is already a torque beast, and the stroker crank only makes it that much more of a stump-pulling brute... But the reason I say that is this: An engine built for low RPM power does not need crazy amounts of exhaust flow to achieve it. I knew when I was planning my 351w build that long-tube headers of any kind were going to be difficult to fit, and big primaries were pretty much out of the question as long as the suspension was stock. So rather than shoot for the moon and be limited by my exhaust, I planned for getting the most I could out of what would fit - Long tubes with 1.5" primaries seem to let my engine breathe well up to about 5500 but not much higher, so I had to keep that in mind. You want a cam that makes power early and peaks on the low side. In my case a comp 268H fit the bill. According to simulation software, with all possible factors taken into account this netted me around 400+ ft/lb of torque and about 330 hp. But don't just copy my choice as a 393 will probably want something a tad bigger. We'll help you choose your cam after you know exactly what parts you're going to use... You want to shoot for around 9-10:1 compression, and that will be determined by your choice of pistons. We can't say for sure what pistons will achieve that until we know for sure what heads you're using, what crank, and what bore you have now or end up with.

 

I would stay with the 351 cubes and get a nice pair of aftermarket heads for it instead.

With the core and cost to rebuilt used GT40P heads you'll be right in the range of NEW entry level cast iron heads from Roush/world and RHS.



If you do stroke it the stock heads will be a bottleneck IMO.

 

But with the limited header size, would he really see much benefit with entry-level aftermarket heads vs. GT40P's?

 

Crites 1 3/4" would be perfect.

I see your point about it though, I never saw that he was going to use small tube headers.

 

gt40p heads are to small for a good stock bottom end 5.0. A 393 with gt40p heads would probaly work ok for low end torque in a heavy vehicle but in a light car it would't work well at all unless your looking for a stump puller. Basically any aftermarket heads will outdo a gt40p easily. For a 393 on the street a set of afr 185's woud be ideal

 

ok going to look in to the afr 185's
any good site to go to? but i do want a lot of low in torque

 

ya air flow researches site google it

 

yah thats what i was doing and i was looking at Edelbrock VICTOR JR

 

You never mentioned your budget goals... How much are you willing to spend on this engine?

 

2500 for parts i know its not alot bet i have two kids

 

Then I would stick to the GT40P's. Don't forget you're also going to want to get a converter with an appropriate stall speed to take advantage of this setup, a shift kit would be wise at least, and soon you're going to want to do something about this ridiculous traction problem you're about to have... You'll need an exhaust system too. It adds up fast.

 

do i need a shift kit if i use a 5 speed out of the mustang and for the exhaust system im going to go to my dad he told me he will help me w that. but if i had to i will run the 351 w 30 over to save money tell i get a good job

 

Ah, right, forgot about the 5-speed... Have you figured out what you're doing about the clutch?

 

Jeeezzz.......what a clusterf&*...............

First: 393 rotating assembly COMPLETE! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-351W-3...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3ef1e48de0
Great kit for street performance setup. I've used these in four builds and each ran great.

Second: why does everyone ignore the World Products Windsor Sr. iron heads? Don't bother with GT40P (you'll choke it so bad it will be laughable) or AFR 185 (marginal for a decent 400" engine). You can get the Windsor Sr's bare for $350 each. Put a 2.05" intake valve and a 1.60" exhaust valve in them with hydraulic roller cam springs. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WRL-053040/

Third: hydraulic roller camshaft - TFS 51402001 or TFS 51402002. Depends on how much camshaft you are comfortable with on the street. http://www.summitracing.com/search/...-Roller-Camshafts-for-Ford-5-0L/?autoview=SKU

Fourth: Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap or Weiand Stealth. Holley or Demon in the 750 cfm range.

If you'd like it written up with part numbers let me know. I also have two very good 351" recipes as well if you need that to save some coin.

 

I mentioned the World heads in the middle of the thread.